View Full Version : Red's Spot meter diferent than Sekonic?
cinemano
08-15-2008, 05:49 AM
Hello.
Please forgive my silly question or if this has been discussed.. but we are doing RED tests right now.. and we find that when doing light readings with the RED's spot meter and compare with the readings of the Sekonic.. (using 18% grey card at 40 IRE) we find that to get the RED's readings we had to put the Sekonic lightmeter at 64 ASA (the RED is at 320ASA)..3200ºK WB, 180º shutter, Raw View
in other words.. the RED is giving us readings of 64ASA at 320ASA if im making any sense.. All the setting on the camera are correct (trust me we got like 4 DP around the camera lol, i barely get to touch my own camera buaah)
Is that normal? Is the Spot Meter more accurate with a RED lens?
(we're using Nikon Zeiss)..
cinemano
08-15-2008, 05:53 AM
Should i trust the RED's Spot meter over the Sekonic spot meter, when the readings are different? (perhaps the RED's sensor is a whole other world to what Sekonics are designed for?) Or just adjust the Sekonic to the RED.. or vice versa?
Sorry the silly question.. im a director more into sharpness and acting than light stuff :) But now we're together with 4 DPs playing around with my RED and we're trying to figure this out..
Thanks for your feedback.. (hopefully without sarcasm, challenge!) :P
Dustin Cross
08-15-2008, 07:50 AM
Try your test at 5600ºK WB and see if you get a different result?
Try using Redspace instead of Rawview.
If you set up the card so the Sekonic reads 18% Grey at 40 IRE and what IRE does Red give you?
Dusty
Larry McKee
08-15-2008, 08:14 AM
When I first got my camera, I was getting similar results. I posted here and somebody suggested I do a system reset. That fixed it. Now the camera's meter and my Sekonic agree.
David Didato
08-15-2008, 09:32 AM
Its a math thing, you have to divide the ASA by the number of DPs around the camera.
Just kidding, LOL
Seriously, I would rely on the Sekonic over the RED meters. But try the system reset.
Lewis-M Soucy
08-15-2008, 10:18 AM
Jim mentioned something about the grey card and it wasn't 50% if I recall correctly... Check his Recon about "Red and ISO"... I haven't mine yet, so I can't say much so far altough I follow the whole thing pretty closely...
Check here:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14336
And there:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14345
Hope this helps. But as far as I remember, the whole ISO/ASA bizness was discussed pretty thoroughly...
Evin Grant
08-15-2008, 02:17 PM
Basically you should use Redspace for mid-tones and over all exposure decisions and use Rawspace just to check for highlight clipping. The Redspace curve is designed to nail 18% grey properly on the internal meters at 320 in 5000K light. This will change a little in 3200K (About a 1/2 stop). RAWspace is pretty close to linear and so 18% grey will look proper at about 160 ISO but that does not mean that is a proper exposure because it leaves very little room for highlight rolloff before clip.
cinemano
08-15-2008, 04:40 PM
Larry Mackee caught the source of the problem.. we did a system reset and now the RED and the Sekonic agree :) Thanks to all for your support.. People here are so cool! :D Good shoots!
Brian Broz
08-15-2008, 04:52 PM
I personally never have any exposure issues with RED when shooting myself.
But when on set with DP trying to figure out why things are matching up has been a challenge.
Need to do more testing!
As Sean Fairburn taught me at the SantaFe HD workshop...don't trust what anyone says till you've tested it yourself!
Paul Leeming
08-16-2008, 10:23 PM
Red has the best lightmeter on the planet for Red.... its own sensor!
I think the big deal is that people need to remember you are shooting digital, and more importantly RAW, so for exposure control Red is always telling you, all the time, EXACTLY how the image is exposed. Set User button 1 to FALSE COLOR and you have instant exposure check over the entire image, in real time.
That way you can creatively decide to blow the highlights to save shadow detail etc, knowing that your readings in camera are the most accurate available to the camera itself. Or ETTR, light for shadows etc.
IMHO....
Paul