shooting at 5000 Kelvin with an 80A filter most of the time?

[doondoon]

Since the sensor is closer to daylight color temp @ 5000K wouldn't it be better to shoot at 5000K as much as possible to avoid the noisy blue channel?

For instance, when shooting in tungsten light if you use an 80A filter then you're bringing the color temp back down to about 3200K.

I'm going to be shooting a campfire scene in the next couple of weeks... there will be lots of shadows/blacks behind and around talent. I'm worried if I change the color temp in camera to let's say high 2000K or low 3000K then all the surrounding blackness will be extremely noisy.

If I shoot at 5000K with an 80A filter and (ETTR) expose to the right (then bring the image back down in Red Alert I should get the best results correct?
"best" meaning very low noise and inky blacks.

Has anyone experimented with this lately.

thanks,
michael

[Ariel Weiss]

the best way to get clean footage is so your final color achieved at the native 5000k . now, i think you missed up: higher k: bluer
lower k: reddier; or yellow. tungsten is 3200. with 80a it becomes 5600 which is a bit blue for 5000. for natural white go for 80b (5400) or 80c (4900). now. if you want your camp fire to be warm but not absolutly red you can use 80d.
the camp fire is about 1800k and becomes around 3200 which is yellow for 5000k but not so red. one more thing to consider is the light loss of the filters. 80a,d are 1 stop, b is 2 stops and the c is only half stop making it more convinient for low light.

[Birns and Sawyer]

Yeah, that will help, but i've noticed in build 16 the noise at tungsten doesn't seem to be so bad anymore.

Plus, you may want to try an 80C or D, since the 80A is a two-stop loss, which will hurt you and make it near impossible to ETTR. An 80C is only 1 stop, and a D is only a half stop. Most importantly, if you have a chance to do some test shooting, that will let you know what works best.

EDIT Ariel beat me to it.

[David Wyatt]

one more thing to consider is the light loss of the filters. 80a,d are 1 stop, b is 2 stops and the c is only half stop making it more convinient for low light.

Seems to a bit of confusion here about how many stops you lose with each filter: possibly this varies from manufacturer to manufacturer but I was always taught that an 80a loses you 2 stops, an 80b loses you 1 2/3rd stops, an 80c loses you one stop and an 80d loses you 1/3rd of a stop.

[Gunleik Groven]

To me. it looks like the sensor is still the same as with build 13... :)
BUT it looks like they've added some de-noising in the blue channel, which I'm not too sure I really like NOT to have controll over.

But it seems that's just me...

[doondoon]

Yeah, that will help, but i've noticed in build 16 the noise at tungsten doesn't seem to be so bad anymore.

Plus, you may want to try an 80C or D, since the 80A is a two-stop loss, which will hurt you and make it near impossible to ETTR. An 80C is only 1 stop, and a D is only a half stop. Most importantly, if you have a chance to do some test shooting, that will let you know what works best.

EDIT Ariel beat me to it.


Yeah I'm going to have to light it well.