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Elizabeth Lowrey
08-15-2007, 12:23 PM
I've been following the development of the RED camera with great interest since the RED forum at DVXUser.com (where I've been a member since 2004). My respect for Jim Jannard's approach to development and customer involvement in that process was always high and only grows higher with my daily visits to this forum. Still, I never thought I would be able to afford, or rationalize being able to afford, the camera, even at the incredible value ratio it represents. Now I'm not so sure.

Some personal background. I live in a small town in northwest Florida (Pensacola is about 25 miles away). Having already abandoned 2 "careers" (degree in music from Berklee College, degree in law from Florida State University), I found a niche about 6 years ago in video production, a niche that allows me to work largely from my home as much or as little as I like, doing work that I enjoy. I have been very fortunate to inherit both a home and a certain amount of money from parents and another deceased relative so that I don't have to earn much money from my vocation in order to live in reasonable comfort. That means that I run my "business" more for pleasure than for profit, which is a good thing because it is extremely unprofitable. Though I get the odd project that might fuel sporadic whirlwinds of work, I essentially work only a few months out of the year shooting and editing dance performances and designing rather elaborate title sequences and DVD menus (in another product called RED -- Boris RED) for area dance companies.

I have done some greenscreen work for these projects and right now am doing some multi linear color-keying of select, high-contrast stage footage to allow isolation of dancers in a composited title sequence. The results of both types of keying, though very impressive to lay viewers, have been below what I would like, largely because of the limitations of DV color sampling and compression.

All of the "paying" work I've done thus far has been, and will likely be for the immediate future, delivered at SD resolution. And almost all my shooting is done on a tripod or other support with ample setup time. I currently own a DVX (still a great little camera), which I use as a static 3rd camera for wide stage shots, and want very much to move future multi-cam dance recital acquisition to uniform progressive capture, replacing my Sony DSR 300 interlaced cam in the process.

On the other end of the spectrum, I have always maintained a mild, leisurely ambition to write, produce, direct, and score my own feature(s) (for distribution via DVD, obsucre television networks (Sundance, IFC, etc.), small film festivals, and/or Internet download) and have long planned that my next camera would have to excel as a dramatic narrative tool as well as be capable of handling the almost ENG-style shooting that I do as a shooter of dance performances (where movement is constant and I have little to no foreknowledge of its direction and where lighting is dynamic both in time and stage location).

To accommodate both interests, my sights have naturally been set on the Panasonic HVX200 and, more recently, a used SPX800 or new HPX500. But after a chance to play with the HVX, I ruled it out because its low light performance is so relatively poor (especially considering the amount of noise it generates at 0db). It could not gracefully handle the low-key lighting that prevails in a small percentage of the dances I shoot.

I came very close to obtaining a demo model SPX800 (with VF, plate, P2 drive but without lens) yesterday at around 9.5K but was outbid at the last minute. The HPX500 has certainly come in at a very tempting price point given comparisons to other high end cams from Sony and Panasonic. And I could probably pair the 500 with a used SD lens and VF for around 16.5K all in and get good looking progressive SD footage with room to grow to HD in time.

But the more I think about it, the more nonsensical it seems to me to spend close to or over half the cost of a RED system on a conventional ENG/EFP camera that still uses 3 CCDs and that will require a huge investment in a broadcast B4 HD lens when I decide I'm ready to move up to HD. For less than half the cost of even the most modest HD B4 lens, I could apparently obtain the Birger mount with a very nice pair of Nikon zooms and still have fine, responsive manual control of iris and focus on a 4K imaging system with vastly superior dynamic range and DOF options (with motorized zoom on a pan-handle mountable rocker switch hopefully to follow soon from Birger or some other manufacturer). The leveraging of the economics of scale from still camera lenses alone seems to make RED such an intelligent investment. (And I have a Nikkon Digital SLR which I wouldn't mind being able to pop a really high quality lens on, too!) For that matter, the RED cine zooms look to be entirely bargain compared to the vast majority of B4 HD lenses out there.

On the other hand, I've never shot a dance behind anything other than a DSR 300 with its Canon ENG/EFP lens and am unsure how differences vis-a-vis the RED cam and adjunct still lens system would impact my ability to rapidly adjust focus and iris and smoothly zoom as needed.


Would I be able to use the left hand to simultaneously control knobs/rings for BOTH iris and focus (with, say, the Birger mount) as I do now?

Would I be better off for this kind of shooting either sticking with an ENG cam or getting an ENG lens and the B4 mount for the RED?

Would a NON HD B4 lens be adequate for acquisition with RED if the final product was going to be SD or would I be looking at tons of chromatic aberration and/or other anomalies?

Would a RED cine lens afford me good tactile response and simultaneous control of aperture and focus and, if so, will I still have anything approaching the kind of zoom ratio (18:1) that I'm used to with an ENG lens? (I know cine lenses are intended to be focus-adjusted with a follow focus unit, placing the the focus control on a plane perpendicular and somewhat removed from the iris ring . . . which doesn't seem ideal for simulataneous control. I'm just wondering about the ergonomics and practicality of turning the focus and iris rings directly with a single hand.)


And I'm a little tentative regarding other differences that I learned of in passing. For instance, I was surprised to hear that RED doesn't have a filter wheel and that (apparently?) white balance is set in the first step of post via REDCINE. Now I've never yet needed to use anything other than a single filter setting for a dance performance (the lighting is dynamic but not night and day dynamic:-)). So it shouldn't be a big deal to slap whatever ND filter may be called for (given the RED's sensitivity) in a mattebox and shoot the whole event without ever needing to touch it again. But that along with the substantial lens operation differences makes me wonder what other latent differences might exist with the RED that would make it inappropriate (or much less appropriate) than an ENG cam for the kind of shooting I'm talking about.

I've derived great value from some of Gibby's posts in the ENG/EFP forum and am hoping that someone with that kind of wide-ranging experience can enlighten me on the pitfalls I might be missing. Is this a dumb camera choice for me, not based on financial criteria (which only I can decide) but on practical criteria? As I've inched closer and closer to plunking down @ $15-17K for a new camera, my gut has gotten louder and louder in telling me that it's much smarter and a much better investment in the future to put an extra $10-12K with it and move to a whole other stratosphere of image acquisition.

Besides which, something fundamentally within me much prefers to throw my money and support towards a company that is establishing a revolutionary (within this industry, at least) business model and approach to both respecting and rewarding the customer. If I knew that I could rent the camera out for most of the first year, have it treated the way I would treat it if it were a friend loaning it to me, and recoup the majority of my investment, it would be a no-brainer. I'd almost want to buy it on principal.:-)

Any and all opinions welcome.

Poi Boy
08-15-2007, 12:40 PM
Just do it ! small price for you to pay for all the personal growth you will get from stepping out of your comfort zone.
Aloha
-A

canred
08-15-2007, 12:54 PM
No brainer, buy the RED!

By the way, you have already answered your own question with the detail in your post. Your gonna buy the RED.

Tom

androbot2084
08-15-2007, 01:02 PM
If I were you I would get the Red Digital Cinema Camera. The fact is that the Red Camera can be used on the biggest Hollywood productions with the only exception being 65mm film cameras that would outperform the Red. However Red would make a nice blowup for 70mm film production. Red being a manual camera will be more difficult to operate than a fully automatic camera but it will be easier to operate than a 35mm film camera. Pulling a manual focus is not so difficult with a good high definition monitor attached to the Red camera.

Now I am not saying that ENG cameras are bad. For the cost of Red or $30,000 you can get a HDV shoulder mounted camera with a microwave transmitter that would be excellent for sports and news broadcasting. However to be taken seriously in the film industry you will need a 4k camera.

Evan Owen
08-15-2007, 03:06 PM
I agree with everyone else. If you make good use of it, you won't regret it.

Of course, if you wanted a truely balanced answer, you came to the wrong forum... :)

wshultz
08-15-2007, 03:14 PM
And now a question for you. Is your lifestyle right for me?
My background--not enough money and therefore not enough time.

Elizabeth Lowrey
08-15-2007, 04:39 PM
First, thanks to all who responded.


Red being a manual camera will be more difficult to operate than a fully automatic camera but it will be easier to operate than a 35mm film camera. Pulling a manual focus is not so difficult with a good high definition monitor attached to the Red camera.


Just do it ! small price for you to pay for all the personal growth you will get from stepping out of your comfort zone.
Aloha
-A

I don't know how I left the impression that I rely on automated camera functions or that I even have them available on my Sony. Quite the opposite. The DSR300 has 1/2" CCDs but is in every operational aspect identical to the masses of 2/3" ENG/EFP cameras that supply the majority of news and doc footage seen on television today. That means I have no auto focus. And with the wildly dynamic lighting and high contrast costuming, stage props, black floors, etc. that prevail in the dance performance world, there is no way to shoot that stuff except at full manual. Of course I leave my unmanned DVX in auto iris mode and fixed focal length (and have to sometimes edit around improper exposures as a result), but I am continuously controlling iris, focus, and zoom on my main cam with my left hand while panning with the right. (Would love to have a pan handle zoom control, but they're ridiculously overpriced for Canon ENG lenses). It takes some finger dexterity and a lot of practice -- and of course I don't keep things in focus or properly exposed 100% of the time -- but all of these controls are proximate to one another and allow single-handed control.

So manual is not at all a problem and is even a necessity in the work I do. The issue is whether ergonomically and practically I will be able to control the 3 variable lens parameters (aperture, focal length, and zoom) on either RED cine lenses or Birger-mounted Nikon SLR lenses with the kind of precision I'm used to with an ENG lens. As I noted earlier, it could get hairy if the Birger is going to provide a followfocus-type knob on the left and an iris knob mountable somewhere else. On film cameras and video cams equipped with cine lenses, the follow focus add on is always removed some distance from the lens, so it seems to me you couldn't control iris on a cine lens with the same hand (I obviously won't be employing a focus puller!). The Birger mount ostensibly will require some distance between placement of the followfocus and iris knobs, so it seems iffy as to whether a single hand could deal with both controls at the same time. And none of this is even dealing with the need for some kind of electronically-driven zoom control with the capacity for both whip and feathery zooms.

This is where I'm hoping someone from more of a film background can weigh in and let me know if I'm worrying for nothing or am in fact justified in noting these differences between B4/ENG and cine/SLR lens systems. There's obviously a reason that ENG lenses developed these very large, tactile focus rings with multiple indentations and zoom rocker switches on a very ergonomic grip attached to the lens. The average movie is simply not zooming much if at all (and that's even on the minority of occasions when zoom lenses are employed) and probably not having to dynamically adjust exposure much throughout a single shot, so these concerns have obviously not driven cine-lens design.

Obviously I could simply get the B4 mount for the RED and be done with it, but that takes away one of the economic advantages of the camera as I see it -- the ability to leverage still lenses. The RED B4 mount alone is $3,500. And if they are recommending only HD B4 lenses because of the exceptionally high resolution of the sensor, then I'm right back to having to pay thousands for even the cheapest HD lens. In contrast, the Birger is something around $1,500, IIRC, and I'm certain I could get a decent Nikon zoom for under a grand.

So still looking for some input on this issue.

John Wee
08-15-2007, 06:39 PM
no one knows how the RED is going to handle the SLR "non-cine" Nikon lenses yet. In theory it sounds good but until the first batch of RED ONE comes out (hopefully in about 2 weeks), no oone knows how the RED will perform with canon or nikon SLR lenses.

wshultz
08-15-2007, 06:44 PM
I think there was one early frame published that was taken with a Nikon lens on one of the prototypes and it looked pretty good.

androbot2084
08-15-2007, 06:53 PM
You should check out the lens section of this forum.

John Wee
08-15-2007, 08:40 PM
It is really hard to justify 20k ++ based on a single frame capture.

I cannot wait to see the real world test on the SLR lenses.

Zakaree Sandberg
08-15-2007, 10:06 PM
yes.. its right:)

number6
08-16-2007, 05:36 AM
Don't buy the Red. You seem comfortable in what you have IMO, and (and this is not a putdoun, just an observation) do not envision what's possible. If you could, you wouldn't be asking whether you should or should not buy the camera.

(Actually, I just thought I would offer an alternative POV to all the affirmation you seek and are getting. In the end, you should follow your oun muse.)

Elizabeth Lowrey
08-16-2007, 09:02 AM
Don't buy the Red. You seem comfortable in what you have IMO, and (and this is not a putdoun, just an observation) do not envision what's possible. If you could, you wouldn't be asking whether you should or should not buy the camera.

(Actually, I just thought I would offer an alternative POV to all the affirmation you seek and are getting. In the end, you should follow your oun muse.)

??

It's precisely because I envision what is possible that I'm posing these questions. Keep in mind I was talking about an $8,000 cam (HVX w/ accessories) in the same breath as a $27,000 cam (RED w/ accessories). That I would even consider an investment stratum with one extreme almost 350% higher than the other (coincidentally the one that makes the most sense for me financially) shows one thing very clearly: my appreciation for how incredibly value-packed and revolutionary the RED is and how reluctant I am to invest more than 4 figures in any other camera.

But I also want to make sure that I'm not failing to envision what is possible in a negative way -- i.e., expectations that I'm not even aware I have based on years of shooting with an ENG cam. The filter wheel was one example. The tremendous lens control differences are another. But I want to make certain there aren't other LATENT (to my eye) differences that would prove surprising and/or disappointing based on years of shooting in the ENG/EFP paradigm.

Still looking for any input on that question.

number6
08-16-2007, 09:19 AM
??


But I also want to make sure that I'm not failing to envision what is possible in a negative way -- i.e., expectations that I'm not even aware I have based on years of shooting with an ENG cam. The filter wheel was one example. The tremendous lens control differences are another. But I want to make certain there aren't other LATENT (to my eye) differences that would prove surprising and/or disappointing based on years of shooting in the ENG/EFP paradigm.

Still looking for any input on that question.

That is my point. If something so minor (IMO) that requires you to learn a different way of using a camera is important to you, you should probably stay in your comfort zone. It just seems that you are focused on what is within your grasp to do... not what the camera can do. I'm thinking that it is not the camera becoming a part of you, but you becoming the eyes, ears arms and legs of the camera. You can take a camera and go out and force it to record an image, or you can gently hold the camera like a golfer (well most golfers, anyway) hold a putter... that is, gently and you enable the camera to become receptive to letting the images present themselves. If you've ever pointed a camera at a pretty young (or middle-aged or older, for that matter) lady, you understand that by just holding steady, the image before you will unfold into something you could never have hammered into being.

Martin Drew
08-16-2007, 09:38 AM
Another thing to bear in mind that you won't get the kind of zoom ratios on good quality still lenses that you are used to with B4 lenses. This may or may not be an issue with the type of content you are producing. Something like the Canon 28-70 is only a 2.5x zoom lens.

M

Craig Bowman
08-16-2007, 09:50 AM
RENT and find out first hand.

Nook Kim
08-16-2007, 10:05 AM
Hi eclaire,

Obviously, I haven't had any hands-on with Red One, yet, so everything that I am about to say is
either based on my follow ups on the camera's development or other cameras that I have used.

I have my fair amount of experience as a videographer, shooting all types of different events,
sports, concerts, etc. Also, I have worked on two independent features and about 10 shorts as a DP.

I sincerely think the Red One will be a great camera for me as I am just getting into the professional DP land.
However, the facts that you pointed out in your posts shouldn't be neglected, I don't think. The fact
that the camera doesn't have in-camera filters, that the camera doesn't offer more than
one preset white balance setting, that you will need to go through the entire post workflow to meet your
deliveries, and that the camera is physically more fragile than ENG one's (this is only my opinion looking
at it with all the add-on items).

On the other hand, the Red One camera will prepare you for your dream/goal to be a filmmaker. You will just
need to start writing or directing.

Having all these said, is this really worth buying these inconveniences (the drawbacks of the camera for your
main use) for something (filmmaking) that you might be pursuing in later future?

I am sure there is some workarounds to the drawbacks. The first think pops up in my head is that you can
shoot your subject that is exposed at F/2.0, ISO 320, at F/8.0 if you're comfortable with the noise level
and not having to worry so much about pulling focus.

I know you're mostly concerned about the lens controls. I was going to mention the Red Super Grip, but
like you said, the lens for it and the grip itself will not be cost effective for you.

So... I think what I am trying to ask is this.
First, how long it will take you to start writing or producing films?

I don't want to stop you from getting a camera with great potential, but I also don't want you to get stuck with
something that you might not take advantage of.

And just one last thing, how important is it to produce your first ten films in 4K? I don't know how much
experience you have in film, but just something to think about.

I hope this will help your decision making.


Regards,

Elizabeth Lowrey
08-16-2007, 10:42 AM
That is my point. If something so minor (IMO) that requires you to learn a different way of using a camera is important to you, you should probably stay in your comfort zone. It just seems that you are focused on what is within your grasp to do... not what the camera can do.

You are confusing a desire to know in advance the limitations of a tool -- and the consequent desire to factor those limitations into the equation for its suitability for a particular task or user -- with inflexibility or unwillingness to adopt new techniques. I assure you I may be many things but non-progressive isn't one of them.

Obviously I have to know that following focus on fast moving subjects, controlling iris in dynamic lighting, and smoothly controlling zoom are all possible for a single operator while the camera is tripod mounted and my right hand is at least partly occupied by controlling pan. I am quite willing to invest extra $ to get a camera that will serve my pet, personal, and non-paying dramatic projects in the best possible way. And I'm quite willing to spend a month or two or three practicing new techniques that have my hands and fingers going to unfamiliar places to control the afore-mentioned camera parameters. But I certainly don't plan on cutting an already-slim profit margin on dance shooting by having to hire a focus puller or extra person or two to support a single camera, ala traditional motion picture production. And I would feel incredibly disappointed if I spent $27K on a new camera and couldn't even use it effectively for the one type of regular work I get that pays. I'm not sure why that concern should engender the kinds of criticisms (and, if not criticisms, they are certainly elitist value judgments) you are leveling.


I'm thinking that it is not the camera becoming a part of you, but you becoming the eyes, ears arms and legs of the camera. You can take a camera and go out and force it to record an image, or you can gently hold the camera like a golfer (well most golfers, anyway) hold a putter... that is, gently and you enable the camera to become receptive to letting the images present themselves. If you've ever pointed a camera at a pretty young (or middle-aged or older, for that matter) lady, you understand that by just holding steady, the image before you will unfold into something you could never have hammered into being.

All that poetry is nice (for those inclined to it), and I won't dispute its place in certain kinds of shooting situations. I'll submit to you that capturing dance performance footage on the fly, most often with no prior exposure to the routines, no control of the lighting, and so no ability to anticipate beyond what common sense and reflex dictates, is not one of them. You better not be sitting on your rump pontificating about "letting the image come to you" when the curtain goes up and you have one chance to get it right. Rather, you'd better be concerned with framing your subject quickly and executing your iris, focus, and zoom moves with speed and accuracy so that you have great looking footage of all those jete leaps and fouette turns.

Besides which, as a woman myself, I suspect I have a very different perspective on the transcendence, or lack thereof, that happens when a pretty young lady passes in front of my camera.:wink:

number6
08-16-2007, 10:49 AM
Besides which, as a woman myself,

Oh! Well why din't you say so! You are of course, right... and I concur with everything you've said.

Elizabeth Lowrey
08-16-2007, 11:02 AM
Another thing to bear in mind that you won't get the kind of zoom ratios on good quality still lenses that you are used to with B4 lenses. This may or may not be an issue with the type of content you are producing. Something like the Canon 28-70 is only a 2.5x zoom lens.

M

Yeah, that's a good point and, fortunately, one I've already been considering. I was online last night looking at Nikkon lenses, in fact.

I definitely need to immerse myself in a whole bunch of lens literature. Lens sophistication was never a requirement with an ENG cam and 18:1 Canon zoom that fit -- or could be made to fit -- pretty much every need.

What is considered "normal" focal length for a sensor the size of the 35mm mode Mysterium? I want to say it's between 35 and 50mm. I would actually probably shoot dance in 2K windowed just to increase recording times to the HDD and enlarge the apparent DOF, as I understand that the DOF characteristics in that format closely resemble those of a 2/3" ENG cam. I already have some trouble on occasion getting closeups of dancers toward the back of a stage on my 1/2" Sony because DOF is so shallow at that focal length with comparable framing, so I wouldn't want to get any more shallow than what I might get from a 2/3" cam for sure.

How all that translates into lens needs I'm not sure at this time. But I definitely want to be able to frame a person in bust on the windowed 2K part of the sensor from a distance of about 80-100 feet.

Elizabeth Lowrey
08-16-2007, 11:22 AM
I am sure there is some workarounds to the drawbacks. The first think pops up in my head is that you can
shoot your subject that is exposed at F/2.0, ISO 320, at F/8.0 if you're comfortable with the noise level
and not having to worry so much about pulling focus.

I know you're mostly concerned about the lens controls. I was going to mention the Red Super Grip, but
like you said, the lens for it and the grip itself will not be cost effective for you.

So... I think what I am trying to ask is this.
First, how long it will take you to start writing or producing films?

I don't want to stop you from getting a camera with great potential, but I also don't want you to get stuck with
something that you might not take advantage of.

And just one last thing, how important is it to produce your first ten films in 4K? I don't know how much
experience you have in film, but just something to think about.

I hope this will help your decision making.
Regards,

All good questions and points.

I actually had hoped to shoot my first short film in September or early October. Obviously if I go ahead with that as planned I will be using my DVX or some rented/borrowed camera and not the RED. I've already recorded music for it. The script is written (though needs a final brush up), and I've advertised for casting on some online casting sites. Only need two main actors and one extra in a single, indoor location so it should be relatively easy to shoot.

Most people think of "4K" as the end all of the RED, as they should if they are aiming for features that will see theatrical release. But the aspect of the RED that represents the most impressive and personally valued upgrade for me is the dynamic range. There's simply nothing else in electronic motion picture acquisition that even comes close, certainly not in the same galaxy of this price point. And dynamic range is its own kind of resolution, the kind that everyone can benefit from whether working in 4K or 480P. Obviously the DOF characteristics and flexibility are another huge plus in terms of image aesthetics and possibilities.

Regarding the gain settings and DOF, that's a good point. I had already tentatively concluded that windowed 2K would be my recording format for dance, both to allow me to diminish the focal length needed for a particular framing (and thus increase DOF) and increase recording times. I have needed on occasion more than 3 hours of mostly-continuous recording time.

I'm certain that I can come up with a lens/format/gain combination that will work well for any situation I encounter. I'm still less certain about how agile I can be controlling all lens parameters at once.

You mention the supergrip. Ironically, though I've visited this forum almost every day since it started to keep track of cam developments, I had never heard of the supergrip until yesterday. Is it only going to work with certain lenses?

Blair S. Paulsen
08-16-2007, 11:40 AM
First off, anything is theoretically possible, but here's my best estimation of what your issues/options will be with the RedOne as a single operator:

1) The SuperGrip could be the key tech that makes single operator shooting practical in non-controlled settings. Unfortunately it is still a work in progress that AFAIK has no set price or published feature set.

2) Shoot using the RED 18-50 CF Zoom which should allow precise control over focus and iris. Your results with the manual zoom should improve with practice which you seem willing to do. Of course everything will be wide compared to the tighter shots you got with the DSR300's ENG lens, BUT, in post you can reframe! Yes this will burn some time but it sounds like you have the time, the bonus is that you can reframe like crazy for an SD finish. If you start with a 4096 by 2304 frame and can go all the way to 640 by 480 without distortion that is tremendous creative control.
Proper exposure is important but your current camera has 8 useable stops of DR at best (I consider 7 stops more realistic) the RedOne should deliver at least 11 stops with the potential to pull radically more detail out of the shadows than the DSR300 with less noise.

3) Same as #2 except use a Nikon or Canon prime lens that will cover pretty much the entire stage from your POV. Find critical focus for all the way upstage and all the way downstage then ride it to follow the main action. Watch your monitor to protect against clipping and trust that you can grade up the darker scenes in post.

Final thoughts - the RedOne will be great for a lot of your other work where you don't need to adjust so many parameters on the fly. It will allow you to expand your creative options as your talent and desire manifest. If you learn the data management end of working with the camera you might be able to go out on shoots with your camera and babysit it whilst making a few ducats...

Elizabeth Lowrey
08-16-2007, 01:00 PM
2) Of course everything will be wide compared to the tighter shots you got with the DSR300's ENG lens, BUT, in post you can reframe! Yes this will burn some time but it sounds like you have the time, the bonus is that you can reframe like crazy for an SD finish. If you start with a 4096 by 2304 frame and can go all the way to 640 by 480 without distortion that is tremendous creative control.


You know, that's an excellent idea! My current practice is to hire a second manned camera and leave a third static and unmanned for total stage capture. I hadn't really thought of it before, but your suggestion sparks the further idea that if I frame the full 4K sensor to cover the entire stage, I could actually extract a couple of different "cameras" from a single, static shot, thus allowing me to essentially park the RED on a tripod with lens and distance to stage setup such that I have enough DOF to cover the entire stage, then hire only someone to ride iris. Sure it's a lot of work in post, but it would be a great way to ensure that I get a good shot of every single piece of action on the stage. And I wouldn't have to worry about matching footage to a third camera I don't own.

This is opening up a whole new avenue of thought. Thanks so much, Blair.