Battery Life? Menu navigation?

[Mike Prevette]

No one has been bitching so I guess it's all good. How have the batts been holding up?

How about the menus? How many clicks to reformat? Change FPS speed? Shutter speed adjust?


_mike

[Jarred Land]

Battery life is on average between 70-100 minutes... pending on what your using, how your using it and how hot it is etc.

Reformatting is 4 clicks in the menu. Shutter speed is one click (and then scroll to the number you want) since it has a dedicated button just like white balance and ISO.

[Emmanuel Cambier]

thanks

[Mike Prevette]

Thanks Jarred!

[David Battistella]

Battery life is on average between 70-100 minutes... pending on what your using, how your using it and how hot it is etc.

Reformatting is 4 clicks in the menu. Shutter speed is one click (and then scroll to the number you want) since it has a dedicated button just like white balance and ISO.

Thanks,

It seems like these small details have been under raps for so long. I love these small details. This is wild! Make for people who shoot!

David

[Brandon Fraley]

can u just plug it into the wall or generator? additional hardware required?

[Brook Willard]

The charger will be able to power the camera from AC.

[jbeale]

Sorry for an obvious question, I just don't remember seeing it- what is the minimum focus distance for the RED 18-50mm zoom?

[Brook Willard]

9"... about 2-3" from the front element.

[Anders Holck]

Hey Brook I read there was only ft scale on the barrel. If true, any way to get it in m

[Brook Willard]

Yeah, I don't recall seeing a "m" scale on Blair's lens.

[Unwounded]

How many shutter angle adjustments are there? Can you simultaneously charge a battery and supply power to the camera (I'm guessing not but may as well ask)?

[Unwounded]

Sorry........Also how intuitive is the menus structure and how deep is it? Is it more like a convoluted F-900 or more simplistic like a viper?

[Brook Willard]

Can't charge and power camera at the same time, AFAIK.

Didn't go into the shutter menu. I bet there are a lot.

The menu was very intuitive without a manual. The display on the back was a little poorly used in the menu [I think there's a more elegant solution], but the onscreen [LCD, EVF, Preview HD-SDI or HDMI] menu is very clear.

It doesn't go deeper than a few levels and the structure is very logical. There just aren't that many things to be concerned with while shooting RAW.

[Fence sitter]

I'm still waiting on hard stats for start up time from cold start to putting down pictures?

[Laco Zamba]

Brook: and what about user manual? Does it exist already?

[Brook Willard]

Yes, it exists. I probably should've read it.

Boot time was roughly 60 seconds on this firmware.

[Fence sitter]

Any mention of it getting faster?

[Mick van Rossum, NSC]

What about changing batteries ? You have to shut down and reboot for changing batteries. Since there is only one power inlet (V-Lock or 12 V externally) it means that changing batteries takes a long time (boot time 1 minute). Any ideas how to overcome this ?

[Kevin Halverson]

Hello Mick,

Regarding your concern over the reboot period when replacing a battery, it would be an extremely simple matter to build a diode isolated "Y" cable that would allow for the replacement battery to be connected before disconnecting the depleted one. All that is required is three connectors, two diodes and a bit of wire. Shouldn't take any time at all to assemble. If this is something that you are interested in and require further detail, let me know.

Kevin Halverson

[Brian Broz]

Wow...60 second boot time for the camera?!!? Wow...that's surprising...and isn't good. Although it's early on and I'm sure most of us are confident that will change to a 0.5sec startup time soon-)
But seriously, considering the high power draw (70+Watts loaded?) most will be powering down to conserve power between setups...
Hmmm maybe 4-6 batteries should be worked into the budget:-(

[REDHKSC]

Battery life is on average between 70-100 minutes... pending on what your using, how your using it and how hot it is etc.

Reformatting is 4 clicks in the menu. Shutter speed is one click (and then scroll to the number you want) since it has a dedicated button just like white balance and ISO.

it's not a bad ideas to use the " Intelligent " battery to tell us so.

Check it out my partner in CHINA can do with their batteries for the Cameras, and here you are the...

http://www.prosolution.tv/pro-x/batteries/

I have designed the RED Color Bricks to go with the RED ones already.

STEWART

[Joel Kaye]

I have designed the RED Color Bricks to go with the RED ones already.


How much are the 190w v-mount and how do you buy them? Looks like there are 3 different 190's that would work.

[Craig Schober]

i'm not even sure if the red drive is being used out there yet but it would be great to know run times for cf use vs. red drive use. i'm trying to figure out how many batteries to purchase and also plan on purchasing cf port and red drive. i know it's a boring test but does red drive draw a lot more power than the cf card does?

thanks

is there a thread or sticky for just camera tests? not viewable footage so much as runtime, startup time, configuration specs etc. and can someone post the current user's manual in pdf if possible?

[jbeale]

All that is required is three connectors, two diodes and a bit of wire. Shouldn't take any time at all to assemble.
I'd like to add two heat-sinks to that parts list, unless you are heatsinking to a chassis somewhere....

Battery life is on average between 70-100 minutes... pending on what your using, how your using it and how hot it is etc.

Is that with the "red brick" battery? The Red Brick is 140 Watt-hours according to this post: http://www.reduser.net/forum/showpost.php?p=16857&postcount=6

Just doing a few numbers... if the camera runs 70-100 minutes from the battery, that means the camera (or camera + accessories) is using between 84 and 120 Watts of power on average. (Less if the battery cuts out before it is completely empty, as is often done for safety or to increase recharge cycle lifetime.)

According to the Red One FAQ http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1487 the Red power input is 12 V and I'm assuming the battery is nominally 12 V (not 12.6 V, 13.5 V etc). If so, and the power is 84-120 W then there is 7-10 amps going through that power cable.

If you want to use two batteries, and make a "Y" cable with series diodes using a typical power shottky diode like this: http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds30538.pdf , you will loose 0.5 volts and dissipate 3.5-5 watts of power in the diode, so don't forget to use an adequate heatsink on those diodes! That package to air is around 100 deg/watt, so 5 watts will certainly melt it if you don't.

[Jarred Land]

jbeale thats alot of math.

Jbeale its actually less than 84... but it depends of course if your powering monitors and prestons and what have you. most people will see 100 minutes no problem using just the LCD and recording the equal amount of time as not recording. If your not using the onboard monitors, you will get more than 100 minutes. if your just going to compact flash and not powering the drives.. well, you get the idea.

[Kevin Halverson]

An even better diode choice would be a dual Schottky in a TO-220 package like a MBR1545CT (http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MBR1535CT-D.PDF). Easy to heatsink and perfect for this application.

The forward drop at 7A is about .5V so the Pd is well within the ability of a TO-220 package with a moderate heat sink like an Aavid-Thermolly 531302B02500 (http://www.aavidthermalloy.com/cgi-bin/stdisp.pl?Pnum=531302b02500g). With a thermal resistance of about 8 degrees C / Watt its a very manageable rise.

An even better active solution would be a pair of MOS-FETs. These can achieve a forward drop of under 100mV which would make the Pd insignificant.

[jbeale]

Wow...60 second boot time for the camera?!!?

Red has made it clear many times that the camera is not finished, so I wouldn't be worried about it for now. I wonder if there will eventually be a "sleep" or hibernate mode- that's the only way that laptops get fast apparent startup times, and it is true for my Canon 20D DSLR also (even with power switched "off" it's actually in sleep mode- it takes longer to start up if you actually remove the battery). If there was a micropower sleep mode, then maybe an internal capacitor or small battery could keep things in order during a quick main battery changeover.

[jbeale]

An even better active solution would be a pair of MOS-FETs. These can achieve a forward drop of under 100mV which would make the Pd insignificant.

Yes, some kind of fet switch would be my first approach also. You're clearly familiar with the options- I just wanted to caution anyone thinking of slapping this together quickly, that the diodes would get hot without a heatsink.

Edit... actually, the diode or switch is only needed when both batteries are connected at once, so I suppose you COULD even short around them with a relay, switch etc. after the changeover. Ok, not a good idea if BAD THINGS might happen when someone forgets to flip the switch and shorts together the fresh battery with the discharged one.

[Finner]

Anyone know if there is anything in the works of a cable that will go from the camera to a block battery? When production shooting I would see these onboard batteries not being the best choice with all the power the camera draws. A dolly pack battery would be much tougher and last longer for most on set situations.

http://www.cinepower.com/website/products/dollypackfamily.html%20

[jbeale]

Anyone know if there is anything in the works of a cable that will go from the camera to a block battery? When production shooting I would see these onboard batteries not being the best choice with all the power the camera draws. A dolly pack battery would be much tougher and last longer for most on set situations.
http://www.cinepower.com/website/products/dollypackfamily.html%20
I don't know all the capacities available, but that webpage is touting a 15 Amp-hour pack. At 12.6 V that's (15*12.6) = 189 Watt-hours, which is only 35% more power than one Red brick at 140 watt-hours. Or is that a dual pack with two separate 15 Ah batteries, if so that would be a clear win.

[Finner]

The dolly packs I have worked with are all dual packs that have 12 dual or 24 single volt settings.

[R. Gonzales]

Hello Mick,

Regarding your concern over the reboot period when replacing a battery, it would be an extremely simple matter to build a diode isolated "Y" cable that would allow for the replacement battery to be connected before disconnecting the depleted one. All that is required is three connectors, two diodes and a bit of wire. Shouldn't take any time at all to assemble. If this is something that you are interested in and require further detail, let me know.

Kevin Halverson

Hello Kevin,

I'm expecting delivery of a RED around Dec 07 or so. I'm very much interested in your post. and ideas of of how to avoid long reboot times.

Regards


Method

[Kevin Halverson]

Hello Method,

I have decided to build a solution to the battery change over issue. Contact me off list and I will be happy to share what my solution entails.

Kevin

[tj williams]

Yo FInner how's it going? looking forward to getting all the pin in an out info, for that very kind of purpose. Wonder how long before they publish that?