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View Full Version : First impressions, and dust/dirt challenges? PART 1



jacknusa
09-10-2007, 09:25 AM
NOTE... THIS POST WAS TOO LONG FOR THE FORUM, I'm SPLITTING IT IN 2 PARTS, THIS is PART 1

Just returned from IBC where I for the first time saw both the camera, and footage (beyond the clips circulating on the internet).

Mechanical/design
-----------------

My first thought when I saw the camera was: IT'S HUGE. I hadn't really thought about it, but somehow from seeing the product pictures on the internet, I had come away with the impression that the camera body was something that would fit in the palm of my hand. Wrong - it's more the size of something you cradle in your arms...

The Red staff in the booth was somewhat vague on the weight of the camera since it will vary so much depending on your specific configuration, but 25 pounds fully loaded was a number that was floating around the exhibition floor. And, fully decked out - with a production swing-away matte box, follow focus battery, HDD, viewfinder etc etc... It's the size of a 35mm package, actually if you were to put a Arri 235 Camera next to the Red, the 235 would look tiny, and the Red even a bit clunky.

About the design... It's pretty utilitarian. It seems very rugged as far as all the metal parts go, with one exception. The little "twist handle" screws mounting some of the extras, like top grip, handles etc. seemed a little under dimensioned. And, to make the handgrip stick in a fixed position I had to twist it pretty tight, to the point that it was kind'a hard to get it open again. Also, it seems that the threadings were made straight into the aluminum - I assume - parts. I'm not a metal shop guy, but I think that if you have those types of "high use" threadings in an aluminum piece, the grade A procedure would be to put a steel inset into the aluminum. And, on the show floor cameras that everyone was tinkering around with, there was at least one of those screws there there was metal shreadings coming off the screw/threading.

Also, the on/off button seemed a little flimsy compared to the Arri version which it seems to be modeled after - but if it works ok, it's not an issue.

Also, some people were expressing concerns about the ruggedness and durability of the HDMI connector which seems to be the main monitoring output (more on that later).

Other than that, it seems to be a well build camera ready to go into the field.

About the general design, I don't really have any comments other than I whish they would have put the menu screen and it's associated buttons on the side of the camera instead of on the back. A side mounted menu would both be more accessible (in my opinion) and would have allowed for a more compact configuration of the camera. As it stands, the HDD/Battery cradle must be mounted unnecessarily far back to allow for menu access, making the cameras footprint in a ready-to-shoot configuration larger than it really has to be.


Formats/Inputs/outputs
---------------

Regarding formats, I don't really have any comments since it's an evolving thing - but it seems to me that the windowed 2K option should probably be a top priority.

Regarding audio inputs... The spec of 4ch 24/48 audio is just what it should be (the 4 channels even a little bit more than that) but, what is the quality of the pre-amps and the A/D converters? Now, for the record, I'm not complaining - I was actually surprised that there was on-board audio at all, and even if the audio quality leaves a lot to be desired, just the fact that the production mixer can feed a temp mix into the camera at line level should cover 99 % of your dailies/offline editing audio needs - a fantastic time/cost -saver over a film workflow. But until someone has run full tests on the audio quality, it would probably be wise to prepare to record sound dual system.

As far as outputs go - I think the omission of a composite output is somewhat mission critical. Not because most people wouldn't prefer to monitor a nice HD image over HDMI, but because as of now, I know of no "field-grade-rugged" monitors with HDMI inputs... Might seem like a minor problem, but I think most people will want to add a HDMI -> Composite converter to their kit.


The screening
-------------

I saw the "Crossing the line" screening twice (Saturday and Sunday) and it looks fantastic - end of discussion.

Yes, there were some blown highlights here and there (shiny leather jackets in bright sun light, and the sun hitting the metal surfaces of the airplanes at an unfortunate angle here and there, but I doubt that any imaging device - film included - would have handled every single little shiny speck. Films grain structure might have masked the little imperfections better but...

Now - in addition to the Red screening, I did attend two other screenings - Dalsa, and Grass Valley/Viper. My main analysis after all three screeings is this: at some point the resolution and the latitude, and all other "technical" aspects becomes irrelevant. At some point it's all about lighting, choosing your angles, art direction, wardobe, make-up (not to mention story and acting - but let's keep to the image side of things). And, that point is probably closer to 2K than to 4K.

The Dalsa footage was clear, crisp, sharp, super high resolution, and seemed to handle lighting ratios just fine. But, the production values were (to put it mildly) very low (no offense to the filmmakers who apparently was working on a non existing budget - but still).

The Red footage, was probably very much equal to the Dalsa footage in terms of sharpness, resolution latitude etc etc. But it was infinetly better shot and the production values were off the chart for a short film. And, based on the footage presented (pricing aside) if someone walked in "blind" to both screenings I doubt that anyone would have walked away thinking Dalsa is the way to go for their next production. They would probably have thought the Dalsa footage was too sharp, too electronic, not cinematic enough, but really it's not the camera, it's the production.

But on the flip side of that - Grass valley showed the trailer for Zodiac and the Heiniken commercial where Brad Pitt goes out to the corner drugstore for beer. The Viper footage was noticeably lower in resolution/sharpness compared to Dalsa/Red (however, it was unclear what the post process had been, and what we were actually watching - it might have been an all 2K chain, or it could have been off tape...) but, the images on screen were the most exciting, beautiful, and cinematic of all three screenings. If I had to sit there and watch the same footage all day, I would have picked the Viper footage over both Dalsa and Red. But the point is, at some point, you can leave the image quality discussion behind you, because it's all about what's in front of and behind the camera, not what's in the camera.

And, Red has "crossed that line" ;-) I think and hope the Red Team will keep developing the camera, but I think any discussion about the Red cameras ability to create high enough quality images can be laid to rest - if the images will be beautiful or not will depend on other factors.

jacknusa
09-10-2007, 09:27 AM
NOTE... THIS POST WAS TOO LONG FOR THE FORUM, I'm SPLITTING IT IN 2 PARTS, THIS is PART 2


Dust and crap in "The gate"
---------------------------

Ok - here is my main concern about digital cameras in general, and single chip CMOS cameras in particular.

In both the Dalsa, and the Viper presentation, they were kind enough to do a Q&A session, and I asked about dealing with dust and dirt getting into the camera and onto the sensor. Both presenters agreed that it was a good question and a valid concern. The Viper people however viewed it as less of a problem than Dalsa for reasons that will become clear.

Dalsa told a horror story of a name (I forget who) director who shot test footage with the camera. Aperently, in it's early (current?) incarnation the camera had fans for cooling that were supposed to be shut off manually when you change the lens. In one instance the AC neglected to do so, and the fans sucked enough dust in to the camera to ruin the ret of the days footage completely.

Now, in it's current? Future? Incarnation, The Dalsa camera will automatically reverse the fans and have the airflow pass through HEPA filters, creating a positive flow of clean air going OUT from the lens mount. Apparently they have a patent application pending for this design.

Still, cleaning the sensor and "checking the gate" must be addressed with care, and the procedure seems to "simply" be the that of cleaning the sensor in a DSLR still camera.

The Viper people were a little less concerned... Because the Viper is a 3 CCD design the sensors are not exposed to the outside world like on a 1 chip CMOS camera. What's exposed is the surface of the prism, and - here's the key - that surface is so far from the focus plane that a few specks of dust doesn't really matter (ever seen a DP thread a nylon stocking over the back of a lens?).

And, since the Sony/Panasonic offerings in the area of E-cinematography are also CCD designs (F23?) those cameras should also be fairly "dust robust".

What about RED then? They didn't allow for a Q&A in their presentation, but I spoke briefly to Ted in the booth. Red's thoughts on the matter seems to be - be careful and you should be OK. Change lenses in a clean environment. If you have to clean the sensor preferably do it in the camera truck...

I don't want to say that's naïve, but it's a little bit sweeping a potential problem under the rug... I asked Ted to remove the lens, just so I could see how the sensor was exposed to the outside world during a lens change - and sure enough, there was a decent sized speck/smudge on the sensor...

Now - I'm not bitching the design of Red, I'm just pointing out that the procedures for cleaning/checking the "digital gate" needs to be discussed. I know for instance that for Canon DSLR cameras there are specially designed swabs that precisely matches the sensor size...

if you are shooting with primes, you are changing lenses 20-30-40 times a day, and dust is going to get onto the sensor, and especially if you are renting your camera, I'd be a little concerned about "over cleaning" (at what point will the filter covering the sensor scratch when people start cleaning it with regular Q-tips?)

Now is this a real problem? You could argue that by now quite a few productions have been done with E-cinematography, and it hasn't really been brought up as a major issue - but, vast majority of those projects have been shot on Sony cameras, some Panasonic varicam, and a few on Viper... All 3 CCD designs, with it's more forgiving characteristics in the dust regard.

So, back to the screening of "Crossing the line" It blew past me in the first screening, but in the second screening I saw it... Top right frame - on one of the arial shots - a speck that on the enormous IBC screen must have been at least grapefruit sized. Once I saw it, I couldn't take my eyes off it - it came back at least ten times. And then, lower half left screen, another one, bigger, more the size of a football this time... This ove I only saw twice.

The top right speck is visible in the 1K trailer for crossing the line floating around on the internet in the shots at the following TC:

00:00:09:00

00:01:32:23

00:01:43:03

00:01:49:05

00:01:54:18

00:01:59:00

00:02:00:07

00:02:04:07

00:02:06:03

00:02:08:17

00:02:12:01


You can see the bottom left speck at:

00:01:38:15


Like I said, It flew right past me in the first screening, and it may mot be a big problem in some of the shots, and an easy fix in others - but it illustrates the issue. Also, "Crossing the line" has a pretty naturalistic grade, if you were to put a CSI grade on the footage, the specks would pop quite a bit more...

And, unlike a dust speck on a film frame that generally lasts for a single frame, something on the sensor will get you thousands of frames. And, because of that, and due to the clarity of the image, a fix may not always be so easy.

Once again - I'm not complaining, I'm just pointing out that proper Procedure for cleaning and checking the "Digital Gate" must be discussed


In conclusion
-------------

Red has done what they said they would, and some six months from now we will be very happy owners of a Red camera - way to go!!!!!!

Now go check the gate.


jack

Jason Francois
09-10-2007, 09:37 AM
Nice feedback Jack.

You seem to get it. RED is amazing. Not without flaws, but simply amazing.

There are some that will want to explain away just about anything, but it does seem that the RED team takes feedback very seriously and is very intelligent when dealing with "issues" and incorporating change.

The fact that RED can do what it does at such an early phase (relatively speaking) speaks volumes for the future.

Thanks again for your opinions and your willingness to open yourself up. :)

J.

G.A. Kokes
09-10-2007, 09:38 AM
Thank you for the feedback. There is much to digest there. We have not used the Dalsa system yet, but the reverse airflow approach seems like a workable solution in all but the most dusty environments. Not having handled the RED yet, I am not sure how the airflow is ducted or filtered for that matter. Is there any insight on that? As for patents... Well there is often a work-around. Thanks again for your observations.

Cheers,
G

Trevor Meier
09-10-2007, 09:41 AM
Great thoughts, Jack. Thanks for posting.

Jaime Vallés
09-10-2007, 09:42 AM
Great writeup (both parts)! I agree that we have to be extremely careful about dust on the sensor. I'd rather use zooms instead of primes precisely to avoid changing the lens often for fear of dust. We'll see how current users report on the situation, but right now few are changing lenses, since the only RED lens available is the 18-50mm.

Greg M
09-10-2007, 09:45 AM
Excellent overview, thanks!

Greg M
09-10-2007, 09:46 AM
Great writeup (both parts)! I agree that we have to be extremely careful about dust on the sensor. I'd rather use zooms instead of primes precisely to avoid changing the lens often for fear of dust. We'll see how current users report on the situation, but right now few are changing lenses, since the only RED lens available is the 18-50mm.

Actually most are changing lenses as any PL mount prime will work.

Finner
09-10-2007, 09:47 AM
98% or more of what I shoot is location based and not a nice clean studio. Maybe some kind of a lense swap small camera body size tent protector or something? Some solution of some sort is going to be needed.

Trevor Meier
09-10-2007, 09:48 AM
Dust is one of those maintenance issues that comes with us being in the wild-west of digital cinematography. Until there are automated methods to deal with the issue (like the various sensor-shake powerups starting to appear on DSLRs) we'll have to resort to manual means.

I've travelled for several years with a CMOS-based DSLR in dusty places on several continents. Sensor specks are an issue, but with care they are manageable. I travel with a sensor cleaning brush package from VisibleDust.com. Cleaning my DSLR's sensor is a fairly quick and painless process at the end of each day of shooting... they may already have a brush sized for S35.

It would be nice to eventually see a solution such as shaking the low-pass filter on startup however. Anything to prevent the need to touch the sensor.

John Cordell
09-10-2007, 09:51 AM
The sensor itself isn't exposed to the elements when changing a lens. There is an optical low-pass filter element in front of the sensor. That's what gets cleaned if it becomes dirty.

Steve Sherrick
09-10-2007, 09:57 AM
This is great stuff. Very thorough commentary Jack. I suppose if you are used to shooting film, checking the gate will not be a big deal. Having the proper tools and process to keep the sensor clean at all times will be the key. Like anything else, once you establish a routine/workflow these types of things become very manageable. Those testing in the field now are going to be the bearers of all that great information.

Steve

Joel Kaye
09-10-2007, 09:59 AM
The sensor itself isn't exposed to the elements when changing a lens. There is an optical low-pass filter element in front of the sensor. That's what gets cleaned if it becomes dirty.

That's good news. Is the filter far enough away from the sensor to send dust specs out of focus? How are you guys cleaning that filter?

John Cordell
09-10-2007, 10:05 AM
That's good news. Is the filter far enough away from the sensor to send dust specs out of focus? How are you guys cleaning that filter?

I've not cleaned mine yet. My understanding is that it's the same as cleaning a DSLR -- something I don't have experience with myself but isn't supposed to be too difficult.

I don't know the distance between the filter and sensor.

Kevin Halverson
09-10-2007, 10:25 AM
That's good news. Is the filter far enough away from the sensor to send dust specs out of focus? How are you guys cleaning that filter?

It really can't be as its function as a LP filter would be lost. Unfortunately, the OLPF is effectively so close to the sensors focal plane that contaminants such as dust and smudges will be rendered visible. A clean environment and a method of checking for dust (like a set of complementary color cards) seems like it should be part of all 1st AC's kits.

What is further of interest to me is an estimate of what it would take to replace a damaged OLPF that might result from an inappropriate cleaning attempt.

SF Geek
09-10-2007, 11:15 AM
Jack, the menu interface position behind the camera was something that people from this forum could not change no matter how we tried.

Ramesh Jai
09-10-2007, 11:23 AM
Jack, the menu interface position behind the camera was something that people from this forum could not change no matter how we tried.
I always wished the menu interface was at the back of the camera. I just find it easier to manipulate it from there. I am happy it's there.

Finner
09-10-2007, 11:25 AM
I always wished the menu interface was at the back of the camera. I just find it easier to manipulate it from there. I am happy it's there.

What have you been smoking in your shesha pipe?

Rob Lohman
09-10-2007, 11:42 AM
Just FYI besides HDMI we also HD-SDI monitoring available (both single & dual-link) as well as a RED EVF & LCD. We've already seen our customers use HD-SDI down converters to go to SD resolutions.

C.H.Haskell
09-10-2007, 11:54 AM
I keep imagining I would just belt the battery on my waist to keep the rear menu clean and clear.

Thanks for sharing.

jbeale
09-10-2007, 12:15 PM
for tripod use, with the right bracket, the battery might also mount back and low (below the bottom of the camera) assuming you don't need to tilt up much. Having a lower center of gravity is sometimes convenient.

vidalsosa
09-10-2007, 12:30 PM
What have you been smoking in your shesha pipe?

Some Hoff gas maybe:blink:

Dan Blanchett
09-10-2007, 01:12 PM
Thanks for the comments, but some of them seem to be offered as though the RED was still in production. Yes, it's perpetually evolving, but it's also out in the world now and we're getting feedback from people actually using the camera. And from what I've read and heard and seen, the sensor has improved leaps and bounds since "Crossing the Line" was made with two prototypes.

Good points about the dust (part 2, other post). We'll see how that plays out.

Joel Kaye
09-10-2007, 01:18 PM
I keep imagining I would just belt the battery on my waist to keep the rear menu clean and clear.


That's what I want to try - but is there a cable long enough for that?

Kevin Halverson
09-10-2007, 01:20 PM
That's what I want to try - but is there a cable long enough for that?

Even if its not, its easily solved with a pair of Lemo connectors and a few feet of cable.

Joel Kaye
09-10-2007, 01:27 PM
Even if its not, its easily solved with a pair of Lemo connectors and a few feet of cable.

Kewl. It'll be worth trying. Below the camera would be another good spot... lower CG and out of the way. Should help lesser tripods cope.

Graeme Nattress
09-10-2007, 01:28 PM
The optical low pass filter is further away from the sensor than it used to be. This doesn't effect the low pass filter effect, but does put any dust further out of focus.

Graeme

Kevin Halverson
09-10-2007, 01:31 PM
The optical low pass filter is further away from the sensor than it used to be. This doesn't effect the low pass filter effect, but does put any dust further out of focus.

Graeme

That is certainly really good news. Should help to somewhat reduce the need to be on "ultra dust elimination patrol".

I am assuming that there isn't a path for dust to enter around the OLPF and it would be the only surface that we would need to be concerned with. Is this correct?

Finner
09-10-2007, 01:35 PM
The optical low pass filter is further away from the sensor than it used to be. This doesn't effect the low pass filter effect, but does put any dust further out of focus.

Graeme

Hi Graeme

So an out of focus spec of dust or a sharp focus spec of dust both still seem like they would be an agrivating problem.

Graeme Nattress
09-10-2007, 01:36 PM
No, I don't think there's a path for the dust to get to the actual sensor itself.

Graeme

Kevin Halverson
09-10-2007, 01:38 PM
If a spec of dust is far enough away from the sensor it will simply reduce the total energy level and not really directly image at all. So, the further the better.

Think about if it were say half way in between the sensor and the subject, it would likely not even be detectable at all at that distance. Obviously, we are discussing much smaller distances, but the further the better.

jbeale
09-10-2007, 01:43 PM
Sensor cleaning: DSLR folks have been changing lenses in the field (and occasionally cleaning sensors) for quite a few years now. I haven't heard q-tips recommended by anyone. I do have a "sensor brush" for my 20D which works nicely, and is easy to use. There are also special purpose wet cleaning pads which is somewhat more scary to me.

Note that if you take a shot of a defocused image of a white background, I think you can use that (with the right software) to automatically remove any dust present in post (shots using the lens at the same aperture). If you just want to detect any dust, first stop the lens down to the smallest aperture, shoot some white out-of-focus, and then view with a very high contrast & sharpness setting. All that could be automated, too: eg. custom "dust-check" button?

Finner
09-10-2007, 01:43 PM
If a spec of dust is far enough away from the sensor it will simply reduce the total energy level and not really directly image at all. So, the further the better.

Think about if it were say half way in between the sensor and the subject, it would likely not even be detectable at all at that distance. Obviously, we are discussing much smaller distances, but the further the better.

I understand that but soft focus or not it will still be an issue to watch closely. For me the best image possible is most often my goal.

Finner
09-10-2007, 01:46 PM
Sensor cleaning: DSLR folks have been changing lenses in the field (and occasionally cleaning sensors) for quite a few years now. I haven't heard q-tips recommended by anyone. I do have a "sensor brush" for my 20D which works nicely, and is easy to use. There are also special purpose wet cleaning pads which is somewhat more scary to me.


I think those pads will probably be the best. The sticky tape like ones. The problem is in motion production shooting you can often change the lense more in one day then a typical stills guy will change in a month.

Graeme Nattress
09-10-2007, 01:49 PM
I was on a photography trip to Newfoundland and I took most of my lenses. I changed them, maybe 10 to 20 times a day.... Dust was not a major issue.

Graeme

Andrew M.
09-10-2007, 01:54 PM
I was in Montreal last week and changed lenses only few times and I had to use my centrifugal brush two times.
Since someone on this forum did advice me to use this little spinning brush (I think it was you Graeme) my life is so much easier. It really works.

Finner
09-10-2007, 01:54 PM
Thanks Graeme that is good to hear. I really need to get more DSLR experience as I have been a film guy for too long.

About 8 years ago I was focus pulling a feature and the director and DP were not getting along at all and had a different take on how they wanted to shoot a scene. I changed the lenses probably over 10 times for every shot because as either the DP or Director would pass the camera they would have me change the lense to the one they wanted. All the camera OP and I could do was laugh.

Kevin Halverson
09-10-2007, 01:56 PM
I am still thinking that a set of three complementary color cards (cyan, magenta and yellow) illuminated and full frame would be a quick test for any dust that would visible.

I am sure that those with early cameras can address how much of an issue this is better than my speculation.