Thread: Settings for Stills

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  1. #11  
    Senior Member Marcos Montenegro's Avatar
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    Depending on available light, I try to shoot 320 ISO with the lowest possible compression (max 3:1) and 6K to get the entire sensor at play. Avoid hand held; sticks only. The shutter angle setting depends entirely on what you're shooting and your final objective, so play around and see what works best. As far as fps, I like to stay around 8-15, but it depends on my subject. For example, if photographing children or moving subjects I rather just shoot 24fps and get the instant I want, but if its adults or relative still subjects then I can go lower.

    Good luck!
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  2. #12  
    Junior Member Gregory Dillard's Avatar
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    I wonder how these look now on the EPIC-W? Nice stills!
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  3. #13  
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    Shooting headshots then people are not going to move that much.
    Is it indoor lighting or outdoor? In any case, use the same shutter speed you would use with a regular still camera. Photographers have all their own "speeds" in mind. I tend to be on the slower side.
    The shutter angle is not relevant to you, unless you want to use the clips for BOTH motion and still. Then it requires all different calculations on how to approach shooting it.

    My 2 cents. I did a lot of comparisons, and I can tell you that (IMHO) the quality of a Dragon or Helium still is better than a Canon 5D, but not as good as a Leica. You can check some work on my website. https://albertog.com/Motion-and-Stil...style/1/thumbs - For the first two projects in this group, all the stills are pulled from motion or shot separately.
    Said so, we are splitting hairs and it is worth using the Dragon for stills if you are also shooting motion with it. Either one after the other, or together. If you are only shooting stills. most of the still cameras give you a better raw file for editing afterwards, and a much easier process overall. For as much as I love the RED, it is not as usable as a still camera as one that was born with that in mind.
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  4. #14  
    I haven't shot stills before so forgive my ignorance - I heard that shooting at a higher framerate (Motion + Stills) would get you more sharpness when pulling stills. But here you guys are mentioning very low framerates.

    Is the reason you guys are shooting at or around 8fps to get more resolution from a 2:1 or 3:1 compression? For print purposes?
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  5. #15  
    Senior Member Akin A's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Jordan View Post
    I haven't shot stills before so forgive my ignorance - I heard that shooting at a higher framerate (Motion + Stills) would get you more sharpness when pulling stills. But here you guys are mentioning very low framerates.

    Is the reason you guys are shooting at or around 8fps to get more resolution from a 2:1 or 3:1 compression? For print purposes?
    The lower frame rate will allow a lower compression ratio, which leads to more detail. The sharpness is more related to the shutter speed, but a lower compression will also appear sharper.
    I shoot studio stills on Epic Dragon 12 fps, RC 2:1, 1/48s (for more light so that I don't have to shoot at F/1.4 and potentially miss focus). I hold each pose for a second so that I'm not blurred due to the longer shutter.

    Check my IG page linked below for examples.
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  6. #16  
    Senior Member Dominik Muench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Jordan View Post
    I haven't shot stills before so forgive my ignorance - I heard that shooting at a higher framerate (Motion + Stills) would get you more sharpness when pulling stills. But here you guys are mentioning very low framerates.

    Is the reason you guys are shooting at or around 8fps to get more resolution from a 2:1 or 3:1 compression? For print purposes?
    the framerate has nothing to do with sharpness in this case. its shutter speed, you need to think in the same realm as with stills images. on a DSLR camera you can take a single image with whatever shutter speed you like..1/50 or 1/500...the same goes for the red.

    so lets say you want to shoot stills. you take the framerate down to 8fps to get the best 2:1 compression ration....but then you need to pick the shutter speed....which is the main factor for sharp crisp images....the faster the shutter....the sharper the images (given that your focus is on point of course)....when shooting handheld i usually work around the 1/250 or upwards...sometimes during the middle of the day i even shoot 1/500 or 1/800. THAT will give you crisp images with minimal motion blur.

    This was shot handheld F8 with a shutter speed of 1/800:https://www.instagram.com/p/BeOr1dog...rdominikmuench

    This at F2.8 with a shutter speed of 1/250: https://www.instagram.com/p/BW6JyJgA...rdominikmuench
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