Thread: Group Buy: Budget CRI 95 LED Strip Lights

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  1. #911  
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    Terminal connectors are cool for me.
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  2. #912  
    Senior Member Brandon J.F.'s Avatar
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    I talked it over again with the manufacturer. The reason the phoenix connector costs so much is because it needs to be rated at 40A even though the majority of us will rarely, if ever, push all 4 channels to the max. The high price of the connector will also mean it will cost more to have spares pre-rigged and they will be harder to get.

    Quote Originally Posted by Note Suwanchote View Post
    I vote for terminal otherwise the price difference is pretty large when compared to the current cost.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamon Lewis View Post
    Terminal connectors are cool for me.
    Yeah, I don't want to be on set with a lost connector and no way rig the lights. I think terminals are the ideal way to go. We can add whatever connectors we want with them and aren't married to a proprietary connector that costs a fortune and is hard to find.

    I vote for terminals.

    I'm working out the last couple details. Specifically, certifications. FCC, CE, and RoHS. We should be a go tomorrow.
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  3. #913  
    Senior Member Manfred Lopez's Avatar
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    Terminals for $9!
    Manfred Lopez
    Director - Writer

    BIO - IMDB
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  4. #914  
    Senior Member Manfred Lopez's Avatar
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    THIS is an excellent post. I hope it does't get lost once people start voting again.


    Quote Originally Posted by Corey Jacques View Post
    Based off of just what I've used, which is LiteGear tungsten and daylite LEDs(Not variable)

    This is how I understand it all. the controller is it's own thing. The controller doesn't need much power, if any. The controller only limits the amount of power to 10Amps MAX(Per channel, 40 Amps potential across all 4 Channels. 40 Amps of "white" LEDS, meaning single colour(Daylight/Tungsten) 40 Amps of LED is roughly 4x 16' Strips(64').

    As for power supplies. You can find all sorts of power supplies. One key thing is that you should remember that it's roughly 1AMP per 2 Feet of LED(For White LEDs). So if you have a 1 Amp power supply, you are limited to 2Feet.

    1Amp = 2'
    2Amp = 4'
    3A = 6'
    4A = 8'
    5A = 10'
    6A = 12'
    7A = 14'
    8A = 16'
    9A = 18'
    10A = 20'
    20A = 40'
    30A = 60'
    40A = 80'

    If you use more LED than the power supply can handle, they won't get enough power and you'll see it dip in power(dim)

    With that being said. if you really want to run 4 complete strips, 64' of LED, which would be pretty crazy you would need something that could handle this.

    12V 40Amp power supplies are available, but are obviously beefy(usually have a fan). If you really want something that could run that, keep an eye out because some have a duty cycle. Some are 40Amps peak, with a 36Amp 90% duty and 30A Continuous.

    Here's some 30Amp power supply

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AMP-Peak-...-/400849130485
    http://store.litegear.com/product_p/ps-12v-30a-v.htm

    I personally don't see a real application that you would need 64' of LEDs all on 1 controller.That's 2400 LEDs, unless you plan on building fixtures.

    I personally carry 2Amp power supplies and 6Amp power supplies. When the full rolls finally arrive I'll end up getting a few 10A power supplies. maybe 1 large 30Amp supply.

    If you are going to make tubes, it's simple:
    single LED tube = ~3' = 1.5Amps
    Double LED Tube = ~ 3' = 3 Amps

    The amount of things you can make with these are limitless! Be creative! If you plan on making smaller ones, well just remember the 1A = 2' of LED. if you want something smaller, it's pretty easy to do the math. Also, remember, LEDs are just small circuit board like material. If you buy the LED to LED connectors, make sure you don't add 2 full strips together, because the strips themselves can only handle 10Amps and you will fry them. You would also need beefier wires to go from a 30Amp power supply to your controller.
    Manfred Lopez
    Director - Writer

    BIO - IMDB
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  5. #915  
    Quote Originally Posted by Corey Jacques View Post
    Based off of just what I've used, which is LiteGear tungsten and daylite LEDs(Not variable)

    This is how I understand it all. the controller is it's own thing. The controller doesn't need much power, if any. The controller only limits the amount of power to 10Amps MAX(Per channel, 40 Amps potential across all 4 Channels. 40 Amps of "white" LEDS, meaning single colour(Daylight/Tungsten) 40 Amps of LED is roughly 4x 16' Strips(64').

    As for power supplies. You can find all sorts of power supplies. One key thing is that you should remember that it's roughly 1AMP per 2 Feet of LED(For White LEDs). So if you have a 1 Amp power supply, you are limited to 2Feet.

    1Amp = 2'
    2Amp = 4'
    3A = 6'
    4A = 8'
    5A = 10'
    6A = 12'
    7A = 14'
    8A = 16'
    9A = 18'
    10A = 20'
    20A = 40'
    30A = 60'
    40A = 80'

    If you use more LED than the power supply can handle, they won't get enough power and you'll see it dip in power(dim)

    With that being said. if you really want to run 4 complete strips, 64' of LED, which would be pretty crazy you would need something that could handle this.

    12V 40Amp power supplies are available, but are obviously beefy(usually have a fan). If you really want something that could run that, keep an eye out because some have a duty cycle. Some are 40Amps peak, with a 36Amp 90% duty and 30A Continuous.

    Here's some 30Amp power supply

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-AMP-Peak-...-/400849130485
    http://store.litegear.com/product_p/ps-12v-30a-v.htm

    I personally don't see a real application that you would need 64' of LEDs all on 1 controller.That's 2400 LEDs, unless you plan on building fixtures.

    I personally carry 2Amp power supplies and 6Amp power supplies. When the full rolls finally arrive I'll end up getting a few 10A power supplies. maybe 1 large 30Amp supply.

    If you are going to make tubes, it's simple:
    single LED tube = ~3' = 1.5Amps
    Double LED Tube = ~ 3' = 3 Amps

    The amount of things you can make with these are limitless! Be creative! If you plan on making smaller ones, well just remember the 1A = 2' of LED. if you want something smaller, it's pretty easy to do the math. Also, remember, LEDs are just small circuit board like material. If you buy the LED to LED connectors, make sure you don't add 2 full strips together, because the strips themselves can only handle 10Amps and you will fry them. You would also need beefier wires to go from a 30Amp power supply to your controller.
    Good stuff....I'll be coming back to this for sure
    RED #1198, EPIC-X #480
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  6. #916  
    Senior Member Brandon J.F.'s Avatar
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    Reminder: Our 3.5 mile / 5.6 km long production run of lights will be done Saturday. Shipping starts late next week.
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  7. #917  
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    The terminals connectors aren't bad at all. You'd be surprised I think. I have a 4 Channel dimmer, same style, with 5 wire terminal(Similar to this one) and no wires come loose. I don't treat things as nice as I should. And if things do start coming lose, then, its as simple as tightening up the screw. If you really want to be extra safe, just use a zip tie and zip tie the 4 wires together and thru the base plate of the dimmer.
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  8. #918  
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    Terminal connectors are OK, but could you take them inside the box, or hide them? (For exemple, construct the box so, that the connectors are on the backside. Would be easy, just flip the knobs and the marks to the actuall backside) It looks more professional, is more safe, and it would be better for integration.
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  9. #919  
    Senior Member Antony Newman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the updates Brandon.

    10A and Terminal connectors sounds like a good compromise.

    AJ
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  10. #920  
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    For those really worried about the look of it, and reliability, you could always just get a Micro pelican case, and a couple strain reliefs. Just drill 2 holes, one for power in, and a slightly larger one for the 4 outputs. This will also protect accidentally bumping the dimmer and changing output. This is why I prefer these terminal connections. it really leaves the options open. I plan on putting mine in Micro Pelicans to protect them from the elements. Vancouver rains 2/3 of the year, so just moving them from cart to set could get them soaked. If the connections were hardwired, you wouldn't be able to do this, unless you cut the wires and all that. Once again, the less restrictions, the more creative you can be with it, and it leaves you with more options.

    http://www.internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=20507 (You can get them at any hardware store)
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