I got a new plate, all batteries work as they should...
I have seen this on cams I've rented, too.
Same fix (gaffa)
It's definitely the plate.
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I got a new plate, all batteries work as they should...
I have seen this on cams I've rented, too.
Same fix (gaffa)
It's definitely the plate.
Close-up of Red Battery Plate pins!!!
Here's a pic of the 5 battery plate pins of the Red battery plate.
The black screwdriver is the exact diameter of the battery sockets.
Picture insert is a side view of one of the pin springs opened up.
The pin is actually two pieces of gold coated metal(?).
One piece is sprung into a U shape around a centre pin.
The side view insert shows the centre pronged pin exposed.
The pin (1cm) only goes into the battery socket for 0.5cm which is of concern.
You only need 1 pin to fail...either the + or - pin and the camera turns off.
Note, it doesn't need to completely lose contact, just enough not to deliver the normal current (7~8amps?), because the pin was compressed over time.
From the feedback I'm hearing I think Rocketeer is correct or at least that's where I'd look first if the battery loses power when wobbled slightly.
Most of the time if the part loses electrical contact when you wobble it you simply change it...in this case under warranty I suspect.
Remember this part (battery plate) is only $175 and it sounds like a pretty good insurance to have a spare!
now for me...if I was sure it was the battery plate contact and I only had 5 mins and needed to get going I'd bend the battery plate pins (outer pins are + & -) slightly just to get you going on set.
Next if I had an hour, I'd take the battery plate apart and re-spring (open up) the pins properly.
I'd also like to know what the insertion count for these pins typically are, but more importantly as the pin only goes in half of it's length into the battery socket, I feel this comprises it's effectiveness....like are these 1cm pins the right match for the .5cm battery sockets. Either way, why are we seeing the MTBF shooting up.
Phew.......Dave
We're having this problem a ton on the shoot I'm on. Pretty much any slight jostling makes the camera shut down.
I am well past the 150 shoot days mark since I got #19 and am already on my 3rd battery plate. Replacements were free and RED customer service was exemplary. That said, the derision rained on the RedOne by hard core film crews due to the weakness of this basic subsystem is rather unpleasant on set and puts future gigs with those folks at risk.
Element Technica is developing a 3rd party alternative. As soon as they have a shipping product, I am ready to camp out in front of their building for it like a groupie trying to get front row seats for a concert.
No company is good at everything, even ones that have been in business for 50 years. RED has accomplished things that "couldn't be done" incredibly quickly, but not every choice was wise. Ultimately, I have tremendous respect for the balls it took to take on this project and am still in awe of how many things they got right. Their continuing efforts to improve the rig are impressive and I am looking forward to B16.
Guys, we are aware of the reported issues with the BATTERY PLATES and, rest assured, we are looking at them.
BC
The official word I got from RED bomb squad was that RED would only verify the compatibility of RED bricks. RED cradle's compatibility with other brand or older batteries are not guaranteed (based on an evaluation done in July).
One of my two RED cradles has very lose contact with my older Sony V-batteries (not usable at all), kind of strange that the other one works perfectly fine.
Quick question. Is this issue popping up with both the cradle-mount battery plate and the belt-clip battery plate? Figured they are esentially the same, but no harm in asking.
They are the same.
Gunleik
I think the issue is not just the pins, but the connection *around* the pins.
If you look at a standard IDX setup, theres a lot more plastic in the area around the male side of the plate. In fact, the plastic continues up above the top of the pins, and does not move when the battery is inserted.
If you look closely at the red battery, there is a large gap around connector where the male plastic slides in. However on the plate there is little to no plastic there.
This means that the red battery is able to *shift* around on the plate. On a standard IDX battery, there is no room for shifting - the grooves in the battery are taken up with the extra plastic on the plate.
I think if RED just added this plastic to their design, it would allow for less movement, and then the pins wouldnt get so wobbly.
The quick on-set fix of bending the male pins has worked for me. However, if you have more plastic on the plate I dont think you would need to fiddle with the pins ever.
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