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  1. #11  
    Senior Member Alexander Nikishin's Avatar
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    Such a tease.
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    Weapon Helium #7042 "Boris"
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  #12  
    REDUSER.NET Brent Carter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastco View Post
    How can I apply to be a Beta tester for Build 16? I'd be very excited and much more relaxed if that would be possible. Getting to know the build in-depth and at a comfortable pace would mean a lot.
    When a build is pushed to beta, it will be on RED.com/support for download for TESTING PURPOSES ONLY. Everyone with a delivered camera will get an email from me announcing beta release. I also post on here when it is released.

    Thanks, BC
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  3. #13  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jannard View Post
    After some of the comments from today's posts we decided to test thoroughly to see what the ideal ISO is for the RED ONE camera... least noise with the widest range.

    Answer is: ISO 320
    Is it possible to know the testing methodology?
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  4. #14  
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    Sorry, I might be a dumbass, but are you saying now that in a high contrast scene we would be best to stick at 320 ISO for the greatest lattitude?

    I read previously that with build 16, in high contrast situations we should crank it up to 500.
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  5. #15  
    Senior Member Jason Sinclair's Avatar
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    320 is the sweet. If you want most bank for your buck, park it here when looking at both sides of the equation and balance is sought, but don't let it stress you if you have to move around a bit.
    Jason Sinclair
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    Lawrence, Kansas
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  6. #16  
    Quote Originally Posted by rgdfilmsRED View Post
    I can't wait anymore.. I'm going back to build 6
    Build 6 - Oh MY!

    Build 6 was the primary build we used on our first Red feature - seems like 20 years ago and a totally different camera.
    Mark L. Pederson
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  7. #17  
    Think like this*:

    These are not accurate "charts" nor is the language used a professional vernacular. This is simply meant to clear things up.

    320
    Puts your latitude midpoint some where in the middle for the greatest range of both blacks and whites.

    ~~~~|---------------18%---------------|
    00....|....|....|....|....50....|....|....|....|.. ..100

    As you go up in sensitivity you are reassigning photo sites from the black end to the white end. You get less "black info" because less space is devoted to it. Hence the noise in the blacks and you magically getting an image where there was none. Higher or faster ASA in red will give you more "room" for bright pixels with obvious trade offs.

    1000

    |-------18%-----------------------|
    00....|....|....|....|....50....|....|....|....|.. ..100


    Going down to a slower ASA is the reverse. As you raise the midpoint of your latitude you will lose "space" for your whites and gain it for your blacks. The irony of this is if you what a clean dark image you need alot of light, but this is nothing new.

    100


    ~~~~~~~|----------------------18%--------|
    00....|....|....|....|....50....|....|....|....|.. ..100

    + the squiggles are just for spacing
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  8. #18  
    Quote Originally Posted by Frzendreams View Post
    As you go up in sensitivity you are reassigning photo sites from the black end to the white end.
    This is the part that well...confuses me and if someone could educate me I would appreciate it.

    Is this reassigning of photosites, via I assume ASA ajustments, occuring by what means? Transfer function, gamma ajustments, LUTs, what? (my understading of these terms is just enough to be dangerous.)

    Also, does the ASA adjust occur POST capture from the sensor? I believe this to be the case, but after a while of reading posts you begin to doubt your understading.
    http://www.post-holes.com
    http://www.leadingedgevideo.com

    Philip P.
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    Red # 964
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  9. #19  
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe what they are saying is that ISO is only metadata in the sense that changing the ISO does nothing directly to the data that is stored. Nothing at all. It only stores the ISO as metadata.

    With that being said, if you change the ISO it WILL change the image as it is being seen on the LCD, viewfinder, or any monitors connected to your camera at the time. If you are in fact judging your exposure from these images you will adjust your aperture accordingly. Therefore, your aperture will be set according to whatever ISO you are viewing.....on the monitor, lcd, or viewfinder......at that time. This WILL effect the image recorded from the sensor, as it will effect the amount of light hitting the sensor. So, now you have either properly exposed the sensor, underexposed the sensor, or overexposed the sensor. Once you take this data into post, much like shooting film, you will be left to deal with the exposure you have.

    ISO makes no changes to the sensor. Nor does it do anything directly to the data. It only effects your judgement when setting exposure.

    It may take a bit of thinking. I just think of the sensor as a film stock. I can shoot at whatever ISO I want, that doesn't get around the fact that it has a recommended ISO and my choices will have some effect on my image.
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  10. #20  
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Gilpin View Post
    I just think of the sensor as a film stock. I can shoot at whatever ISO I want, that doesn't get around the fact that it has a recommended ISO and my choices will have some effect on my image.
    Exactly.
    Mark L. Pederson
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