Thread: HELP! Im getting alot of noise !

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  1. #1 HELP! Im getting alot of noise ! 
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    I feel like I have been getting a lot of noise even in situations where I am using a good amount of lighting.
    I use the exposure check on the monitor and I have no purple, sometimes there is a little green but that's it.
    The goal post also doesn't show any noise, but when I bring the footage home, their is a ton of noise.

    My ISO is 400, I had 3 kino flo's which I know was plenty of light. What did I do wrong?

    Last edited by Jason beaumont; 06-01-2017 at 07:20 PM.
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  2. #2  
    Senior Member Bob Gundu's Avatar
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    Can't tell anything without the R3D file. theres an R3D snapshot button on the lower left you can use to at least export a single frame.
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    Digital FX Greg M's Avatar
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    you are way under exposed...but considering that it doesn't look too bad. Are you looking at Full?
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    Senior Member Tom Gleeson's Avatar
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    Jason,

    Looking at your R3D it looks underexposed at 400asa and is only reaching nominal exposure at 800asa. While the exposure check may not have been showing purple most of the exposure is too the left of the histogram. It is very hard to judge exposure in Redlog as it is so flat and I always use RG4 or RG3 when setting exposure by eye. It doesn't look like a ton of noise to me although hard to judge on a single frame. I do find computer monitors exaggerate the noise but when played out in 1080P on a TV screen the perceived noise level drops. I see in your metadata that you have a 90 degree shutter and unless this is required you can double the amount of light on the sensor by using a conventional 172 or 180 degree shutter.

    Might be worth revisiting your exposure methods with the camera. Zebra and GIO scope are powerful and more exact tools that do not rely on monitor brightness. A common mistake is the Red LCD EVF and 4.7" LCD are set too bright giving a false indication on the exposure.

    If you have plenty of light it never hurts to throw it at your sensor. A scene like this with the dark wood and shadows can only benefit from more photons .
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  6. #6  
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    Ill keep all of that in mind next time thank you so much for the feedback. So when you say under exposed, your basically saying I didn't have enough light? I should have went brighter with the Kinos?
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  7. #7  
    Moderator David Battistella's Avatar
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    Underexposed means not enough light hitting the sensor. Had you moved your histogram been in the center, instead of too the left, by opening up a stop or by shooting at a 180 degree shutter, then two things would happen, less noise and a fatter negative that you have more room to play with in post. You can always make it look darker and keep it cleaner with correct (fuller) exposure, as opposed to making it look brighter by adding gain later.

    Next time you have this setup, roll three exposure tests, open up a stop, two stops, etc and then roll what you think it should be at. You might find that what you thought was overexposed will often get you the very best image or the image you intended. It's a matter of getting used to putting solid light values into the data whereas here you were under, then you make up for that by pushing the exposure. The type of exposure strategy you used here always increases noise because you work from an underexposed negative.

    Hit the sensor harder (let in more light), you can always pull it back in post and keep a lower noise floor.


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    Last edited by David Battistella; 06-02-2017 at 08:13 AM.
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    What was your incident meter reading near the subject and what stop did you have your lens at?

    Most of the time I underexpose something I'm just metering wrong or too conservatively. Brown areas will be noisy with even a bit of underexposure, the MX and Dragon are not particularly clean in the shadows, particularly in ruddy areas (before everyone snaps at me, neither is the Alexa).
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  9. #9  
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    Thanks for all the feedback, I wasn't using a light meter and I have one, I think I'm going to start using it more. I really only had 2 hours to set up, shoot and break down. So that had something to do with it too.
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  10. #10  
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    Well, just clean it up with neat video, you'll be fine. The trick is getting a good profile and then mixing it to like 50% so there's still a little noise. :)

    I do find an incident meter helps a lot, even just for getting a good feeling for what the actual best ISO is for something. The cleanest Red footage I see is exposed close to 200-400 ISO than 2000 ISO, particularly if it's tungsten-balanced light. Brown areas seem to get particularly noisy.
    Last edited by Matt W.; 06-02-2017 at 08:04 PM.
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