Click here to go to the first RED TEAM post in this thread.   Thread: DSMC2 Skin Tone-Highlight OLPF - HELP

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  1. #11  
    Moderator Phil Holland's Avatar
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    Very short description of RED's current OLPF offerings.

    - LLO = Low Light Optimized OLPF - "thinnest filter" and the absolute cleanest in Low Light Conditions. Also most prone to Deep Aperture Reflected Sensor Orbs artifacts.
    - STD = Standard OLPF - 3% less light transmission than the LLO, but better color (closer to the STH than LLO) and slightly improved protection against optical artifacts.
    - STH = Skin Tone - Highlight OLPF - this filter has the most aggressive protection against artifacts and a very good color response, this however comes at the cost of light transmission.

    My general way of working with the various OLPFs. If you rate the camera at ISO 800 with the STD OLPF, I tend to recommend the Skin Tone - Highlight OLPF around ISO 320-400 and perhaps the LLO at up to ISO 1000-1280 in some circumstance for a similar noise/grain/image texture feel. I personally generally rate the LLO and STD the same way and really it's the STH you want to be cautious with. However, if you like filming at higher ISO likes 1600 with the STD and LLO, you may actually be very fine with the STH at ISO 800 for instance.

    A good test is to punch into Magnify on your ideally exposed image and check out those darker tones to see if you're getting expected results. Even better, shoot tests and pull them into REDCINE-X Pro to inspect your tones and noise levels.

    I'll end with the Standard has earned it's name for a reason. Generally speaking it should service you well in most situations. I personally have really been rolling on the STH and STD for a long, long time. Barely whip out the LLO ever. I prefer the general color of the STD and STH.
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  2. #12  
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    Not sure why this old thread was bumped, but I'll throw my 2cents in.

    To the OP; the OLPFs are the same between DSMC1 and 2, but DSMC2 is 1/2 a stop cleaner in the low-end and less susceptible to CMOS Smear (due to updated image processing of DSMC2.)

    As for the red-dots/iris reflection, it's hard to make them happen with STH, but with the LLO/STND they start showing up at ~f5.6 when pointed at/near a hard light source... Anything >=5.6 and they get *really* noticeable. While super annoying (arguable a design flaw as REDs are far more susceptible than the competition), in the real world it's not too difficult to avoid and personally I think the additional ISO cleanliness the STND has over the STH to be worth it.
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  3. #13  
    Senior Member Patrick Tresch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike P. View Post
    Not sure why this old thread was bumped, but I'll throw my 2cents in.

    To the OP; the OLPFs are the same between DSMC1 and 2, but DSMC2 is 1/2 a stop cleaner in the low-end and less susceptible to CMOS Smear (due to updated image processing of DSMC2.)

    As for the red-dots/iris reflection, it's hard to make them happen with STH, but with the LLO/STND they start showing up at ~f5.6 when pointed at/near a hard light source... Anything >=5.6 and they get *really* noticeable. While super annoying (arguable a design flaw as REDs are far more susceptible than the competition), in the real world it's not too difficult to avoid and personally I think the additional ISO cleanliness the STND has over the STH to be worth it.

    It's exactly what I see with the Monstro, but I didn't see it so early (T5.6) with the Dragon & LLO. I do shoot LLO on my Monstro but now I think I'll take the STO for those direct sunlight situations.
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  4. #14  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Tresch View Post
    It's exactly what I see with the Monstro, but I didn't see it so early (T5.6) with the Dragon & LLO. I do shoot LLO on my Monstro but now I think I'll take the STO for those direct sunlight situations.
    Pretty sure it depends on the lens when it starts to really show up and anecdotally I've noticed wider lenses seem to be more susceptible. Also in the stop or two prior to when it really shows up, it can actually look like acceptable flares (e.g. a lens that shows harsh red grid at f11, will have softer and bigger circular red "flares" in far a less distinct pattern at f5.6~8.)

    The beauty about Monstro is that it retains a clean low-end at ISO1600~2000 with ISOCal2, which is equivalent to ISO3200~4000 on Dragon. Needless to say, using STH on Dragon at ISO3200 (ISOCal1) generally looks like trash (noise so bad that it actually affects colour consistency/accuracy). So, yeah, with Monstro I'd be comfortable even using STH simply because I could ramp it up to ~ISO1600 without worrying about the image breaking down... Plus it's 8k VV. Lol!
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