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  1. #1 Tons of stuck pixels in low light mode 
    Senior Member Tim Milgram's Avatar
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    Not sure if this is just low light mode or both modes but it's pretty bad. Currently removing them one by one from this footage, making what should have been a 3 hour edit into an 8 hour edit. Am I stuck with a bad sensor or can something be done?

    Here's a WeTransfer file with an exported clip (colored so it's easier to see the stuck pixels) as well as a PNG file with about 70% of them isolated so you can clearly see their locations.

    Settings on Gemini with standard OLPF: low light mode, 2500iso, 4000 kelvin, 4.5k HD

    Any thoughts?

    https://we.tl/t-TiH39T7fpP
    Last edited by Tim Milgram; 09-25-2018 at 05:05 AM.
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  2. #2  
    Junior Member Chad Leathers's Avatar
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    Try doing a manual black shade in LL mode at the ISO frame rate and shutter speed you want to shoot at. This should fix the stuck pixels.

    I did this for Standard and LL on my Gemini when I purchased it and this also improved the noise and grain.
    Last edited by Chad Leathers; 09-25-2018 at 06:06 AM.
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  3. #3  
    Senior Member Chris McKechnie's Avatar
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    This is a known issue...RED is working to address.
    Chris McKechnie
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  4. #4  
    Senior Member Zeb B's Avatar
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    Dang!
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  5. #5  
    Senior Member rand thompson's Avatar
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    Tim,

    To add to the suggestions above, you can also use Redcine-X to do some "Pixel Masking".

    1) Open up Redcine-X and import a .R3D file, "Pixel Masking" only shows up under one of the tabs after a .R3D has been imported. If "Pixel Masking" isn't already present under one of the tabs, you can "Right Click" in a "blank" area to reveal the "modules" menu and add it.






    2) Make sure these things are done before you start using the "Pixel Masking" tool.


    a) Disable RED ROCKET and RED ROCKET-X.

    b) Make sure Debayering is set to "Full"

    c) In the "Framing Control Panel", set it to "Fit Width" and "No Crop"







    3) In the "Pixel Masking" tool click "Enable Editing", this will place a small box in your "Viewer Window" so you can incase your dead pixel/s in once you have enlarge the image so that all of the dead pixel is inside it.










    4) "Double Click" in the center of the "Pixel Masking" Box, This will give the Coordinates of the dead Pixel to be stored and recalled later and "Mask" the pixel. You can "Enable" and "Disable" the "Masking" by "checking" and "unchecking" the box




    Last edited by rand thompson; 09-25-2018 at 09:30 AM.
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  6. #6  
    Senior Member Tim Milgram's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies guys! Is there a document somewhere which guides you through how to Blackshade? Only thing I could find is https://www.red.com/red-101/black-shading-calibration on the RED website which is a 5 year old document and doesn't reflect the current menus.
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  7. #7  
    Senior Member Fabio Lanzone's Avatar
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  8. #8  
    Is this only a problem with auto blackshade? I've always used manual black shades on helium and have never had this problem. i just switched to gemini and shot at LL3200 iso on an auto black shade and have tons of white hot pixels.
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  9. #9  
    Quote Originally Posted by Cavin Brothers View Post
    Is this only a problem with auto blackshade? I've always used manual black shades on helium and have never had this problem. i just switched to gemini and shot at LL3200 iso on an auto black shade and have tons of white hot pixels.
    Just to be clear, was your auto black shade done with LL enabled, or not enabled? Did you expect that auto blackshade on Gemini would do both regular and LL (in addition to all the different frame rates)? I'm not saying you're wrong or that RED is wrong...just trying to elicit a concise description of the conditions.
    Michael Tiemann, Chapel Hill NC

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  10. #10  
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Tiemann View Post
    Just to be clear, was your auto black shade done with LL enabled, or not enabled? Did you expect that auto blackshade on Gemini would do both regular and LL (in addition to all the different frame rates)? I'm not saying you're wrong or that RED is wrong...just trying to elicit a concise description of the conditions.
    When you auto black shade on gemini it gives you an option to create standard and LL calibrations together, which is what I did. Maybe that is where my problem was and I'd be better off doing separate auto black shades? I don't know why that option would be there if it didn't work correctly or it's very possible that I'm misunderstanding the context of it. I also tested to make sure it automatically switches calibrations when you enable LL mode, which it did. Another note is that I'm on the beta firmware. Lots of variables and sounds like I just have more testing to do. Not saying RED is wrong or that my sensor is bad just trying to figure out gemini and LL mode as it's a little different than helium.
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