Lighting Setup

[Ramesh Jai]

I would like to start a thread where anyone can post still shots of their lighting setup and the end result.

Will really appreciate it and I'm sure it will be a great opportunity for us less experienced to learn from the great masters of lighting.

Thanks a million.

[Imran Farouk]

This thread would be amazing as I have no clue about lighting and sound, but then again Lighting is the single most important factor when it comes to on set elements...
Gone through Rain dance and all the sites looking at lighting tips but always good to see pre-post and the final piece... :)

[KETCH ROSSi]

I achieved the look of the pic below for the Garbo B&W film Trailer, with just 4 LED lights and few Photoflex soft boxes and a couple of reflectors, some times less is better.

A total of four LED-z light fixtures were used here, to create a look which would have later gone to B&W, I wish I had four more lights, but improvisation few softboxex and two reflectors, helped get the look I was looking for.





Here few of the pics of the behind the scenes





You can see the rest HERE http://ketchrossi.smugmug.com/galler...16270383_spRpp

And the Video Here http://www.vuze.com/details/BB6IYO3X...YXJWMDX7O.html

[KETCH ROSSi]

This are some pics from a recent job, I was the Photographer, both in the Music Video and for the behind the scenes shots.

The lights used here were a 1200 HMI in a large Chimera softbox and couple of small 650's as well as a K5600 Softube, a great light.

The Octobox was used as an effect Strobe connected directly to my Camera via a Wizard II, as to give realism of the photoshoot filmed as part of the Music video but did however had an effect on the overall look on the RED footage as well.

Below are few pics and a link to a gallery to see more, will upload some clips asap.










You can see some more here http://ketchrossi.smugmug.com/galler...44962662_GwodD

[Ramesh Jai]

Thank you so, so much Mr. Rossi. Please keep them coming.

[Raul Gonzo]

Hey Ketch- which Octobox is that? Also, what temp is it? I like it, but I am trying to get a daylight stuff right now.

[KETCH ROSSi]

Welcome Ramesh.

Raul, the temperature of lights was set to Daylight at 5600K, most light fixture were already at that temperature, the Octobox had a daylight strobe in it, Flash, not a continuos light source, in the pic above it happens to be shot as it was striking.

It depends on the budget you have, Chimera, Photoflex Elinchrome, Profoto and few more companies all make Octobox softboxes, and they all take different bulbs ranging in temperature from Tungsten to HMI or Strobes, be careful to get the right one depending on the light source you get, as not all are capable of sustaining High temperatures, some are only for Flash and others can take thousands of watts of Hot lights, like Tungstens or HMI's.


ciao

[Marcus Lundahl]

Would also just like to add that I appreciate this thread alot...it is quite hard to find examples fo setup, behind the scenes shots, and then "the final result" as well.
Great for me as a beginner.

Mr Rossi, what is your best advice for a "serious amateur" when it comes to getting a basic lighting kit. I'm really liking the Led-z system...but a little hesitant as how to get them soft? Read a review in American Cinematographer where they questioned how to attach a softbox.

What you suggest the Brutes or Mini Par for that? And what would the comparable wattage be with a HMI light?

Thanks in advance for your answers!

[KETCH ROSSi]

Hey guys, stop calling me MR. Rossi :) My name is KETCH!!

Marcus,

the lights from LED-z or any lights that do not have a attaching Ring of some kind to attach the fixture to the softbox, can be attached in any way you can, as you can see from the Garbo pics, I used some regular straps that you can buy at any Home Depot, the lights don't get hot so the plastic strap it is safe.

For a minimum light kit you need at list two lights to start, and three would be better, but even one strong light can suffice to start, as far as you do get reflector cards, and then you can bounce one single source around.

The most important thing for me, it is not just the amount of light but the quality of it, and the way in which it is distribute on set, ideally you should have in off light to fully illuminate a scene, depending on its size, and the speed of your lens used for each particular shot, but most of the time we can't do IDEALLY illuminated shots, because of budget restriction or what ever, but again it is important to give illumination to what matters most in the story you are trying to tell.

It does no matter what lights you use, no name brand light will help you any better then any other light, what counts is the amount of light they put out, the temperature setting preferably to match, but not necesseraly, as I have shot plenty with a mixture of Tungstens, HMI's and Led's with even few Fluorescents in the mix.

See what you can spend on lights, and try to get at list two lights, a 1k and one 650, will be a good start, if you go Tungstens, a 300 in the mix would make for a perfect starter kit, just don't forget at list a softbox for the 1k and few bounce cards.

If you go with Kino's, great lights but not strong in off for Out door day light shoots, then you can start with a 4' 4Bank and a small 2' 4Bank, this two are a good start, again this are not very strong lights, but you can still use bounce cards to reflect some of the light, no no need for a softbox here, but you could still use a 1/2 stop os 1 full stop louvrer.

Main thing is to experiment with light as much as you can and create your own look, just put light in your scenes, dark images are the usual give away of cheap Videos, unless off course it is an intended look, but I don't like when you can't see S^#@ :)

ciao

[Marcus Lundahl]

Ok! Mr. Ketch it is from now on! : )

Do the Led-z mix well with HMIs?

What HMI brand would you recommend...How are the Coollights?