Thread: Finishing Epic MX at 3200iso, how to meter and light

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  1. #11  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Lubensky View Post
    It's extreme for this sensor, but in some scenarios it's doable and will look somewhat cool. But you have to be an exposure-ninja, and it's totally not for low-light scenarios.

    Try using GIOSCOPE. It's an extremely useful tool, especially if you're common with Ansel Adams "zone system". Basically MX sensor fits fine into zone system - it's 11 usable stops, and you have 5 above middle-grey and 5 below.
    Gioscope shows total of 16 stops of DR, which is the whole sensor, with stop 11 set to middle grey. Stop number 16 is the last usable stop before clipping, and stop number 6 - is almost black. It's the lowest stop I usually try to utilize on MX sensors, everything lower than that shows extreme colored noise and totally lacks texture and detail.

    Basically, if you GO with ISO3200 on MX sensor - you're shifting your middle-grey from stop 11 to stop 9 in GIOSCOPE. Which leaves you with stops 6,7,8 of usable shadow range. Stop number 7 can introduce some noise, stop number 6 will be noisy, but the noise is going to be monochromatic and very film-like.

    I suppose you to use GIOSCOPE for exposure, just turn on stops number 6,9,16 - this will leave you with your limits in range - where it's going to highlight them with colors. And then if you look at the histogram - and if you see anything to the left of the last colored stop - you're into the badlands and have to adjust your lighting.
    Hey Alex, do you have a similar breakdown with Dragon? It's quite useful. (I also didn't realize chip 16 was captured; I thought that was clip.)

    Bare in mind unlike falsecolour, GioScope does *not* take into account the metadata (aka. ISO, curves, colour temp.). It's based off of the sensor capture, which if memory serves is based off ISO800/REDlogfilm gamma (I don't think it takes into account IPP2 or ISOCal2). Hence why if you're pushing things they need to be bang on, cause your wiggle room definitely gets constricted.

    Quote Originally Posted by Enrique Blein View Post
    I go ISO 800 when there's no way around it. I try to keep it at 320 as much as I can possibly can. Noise reduction just makes things look soft
    Is that with MX or Dragon/newer with Skintone? MX thrives at ISO800; it's quite clean and anything less just clamps down on your highlight latitude.
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  2. #12  
    Senior Member Brendan H. Banks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike P. View Post
    Set the meter a stop darker. MX AT 3200ISO is actually closer to ISO1600, so if you meter at ISO3200, and the meter says t2.8, you’ll actually have to go to ISO6400 for what you saw on set/lit for... and while 3200 might have seemed good (I presume you used high CRI daylight source, because tungsten would quickly turn to trash), 6400 is not.
    This is super important for metering, Mike has it written out perfectly.

    It's a bold look for sure, but I like strong choices. I'd look into Christian Sprenger's work on Atlanta. They shot Alexa but he rated the camera much higher than 800, I believe 1600-2000. There are some good interviews out there with insight into shooting that way. Good luck!
    Brendan H. Banks
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