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  1. #21  
    Senior Member Rich Schaefer's Avatar
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    Julien, something doesn't sound right. You should be getting way more than 80asa. I am just thinking here, is your lens T-stop accurate? Is your meter accurate?
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  2. #22  
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    In my experience with RED (and digital photography) trying to find the mid-point gray is kind of useless. It works with film because film has headroom in the highlights and doesn't just cut them off, like digital.

    The correct exposure with digital depends on the contrast in the image you are shooting. If you are shooting a low contrast subject, it is worth it to overexpose to keep your shadows clean. In a high contrast situation you will have to choose whether you want to keep your shadows or your highlights - most likely somewhere in between. So the correct exposure (or iso) will change throughout the day. Keep an eye on the histogram, waveform or zebras and make decisions based on that. And keep in mind that setting the iso lower than 320 can clip the highlights and turn them gray in the monitor which makes it difficult to see.
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  3. #23  
    I've rated it at 200, and shot everything using a light meter. If you're using a light meter I suppose you could rate it however you wanted though, and setting higher or lower speeds would just increase/decrease noise in the final image.
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  4. #24  
    Senior Member Alexander Christ's Avatar
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    Great summary Sander! I 2nd that.
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  #25 False Color Meter 
    Red Team Stuart English's Avatar
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    To clarify - you can't meter via Spot Meter, Zebra or False Color meter with VIEW=RAW.

    On Build 16 these are tuned to REDspace, Build 17 REDspace or REC 709.
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  6. #26  
    Senior Member JanneJansson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sander kamp View Post
    In my experience with RED (and digital photography) trying to find the mid-point gray is kind of useless. It works with film because film has headroom in the highlights and doesn't just cut them off, like digital.

    The correct exposure with digital depends on the contrast in the image you are shooting. If you are shooting a low contrast subject, it is worth it to overexpose to keep your shadows clean. In a high contrast situation you will have to choose whether you want to keep your shadows or your highlights - most likely somewhere in between. So the correct exposure (or iso) will change throughout the day. Keep an eye on the histogram, waveform or zebras and make decisions based on that. And keep in mind that setting the iso lower than 320 can clip the highlights and turn them gray in the monitor which makes it difficult to see.
    Very good description of the "light-dynamic-data-budget", sort of the hole issue film-vs-digital at this time. :)
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  7. #27  
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    from what i recall ... 0-108 ire is Video - back in late 70's early 80's video had a 5 stop range .. so setting a grey card to whatever they set it to back then ( 50?) is not going to do it today ... now we have 10-11 stop range within that same 0-109 ire range ..
    i'm not that "up" on the fine IRE tech spec's but if viewing in 709 i'm not sure you're going to be able to see/view 10-11stops ??
    seems 10-11stops is what will be within RAW file ..then you have to start knocking off a stop or 2 on the bottom end depending on how much noise you like or dislike ... so your test results should be more in the 9+ stop ( safe, low noise floor) area ... somewhere in there will be your ISO ... you should come up with you have X stops under Grey card and Y stops over grey card ... then you spot meter using that range ...
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  8. #28  
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny M View Post
    I've rated it at 200, and shot everything using a light meter. If you're using a light meter I suppose you could rate it however you wanted though, and setting higher or lower speeds would just increase/decrease noise in the final image.
    How did you rate it? 1/50 shutter, Raw, 50% waveform?

    Thanks to tell me
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  9. #29  
    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart English View Post
    To clarify - you can't meter via Spot Meter, Zebra or False Color meter with VIEW=RAW.

    On Build 16 these are tuned to REDspace, Build 17 REDspace or REC 709.
    Thank you Stuart, i think thats the point...
    I agree with the rating on RedSpace view.. my problem was on Raw view.
    Julien Lambert
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  10. #30  
    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart English View Post
    To clarify - you can't meter via Spot Meter, Zebra or False Color meter with VIEW=RAW.

    On Build 16 these are tuned to REDspace, Build 17 REDspace or REC 709.
    Hmmmm. I have been going in to "Raw View" and using false color to "check my neg"? When I do this I seem to see more detail in the image than when it is NOT in Raw View. False color seems to respond accordingly?

    Is my methodology incorrect?
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