Thread: Black Shading/ Calibratiob Time vs. Red Volt

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  1. #1 Black Shading/ Calibratiob Time vs. Red Volt 
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    Just a FYI for the community. The black calibration on the current Beta Firmware 2.05 takes 70% of a red volt running the LCD on the lowest setting for brightness. I was stressed that the red volt would run out before the calibration completes. I am out in the hills of Jamaica and away from AC. I searched the forums an couldn't find the answer.
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  2. #2  
    Senior Member Stephen Williams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randall Brown View Post
    Just a FYI for the community. The black calibration on the current Beta Firmware 2.05 takes 70% of a red volt running the LCD on the lowest setting for brightness. I was stressed that the red volt would run out before the calibration completes. I am out in the hills of Jamaica and away from AC. I searched the forums an couldn't find the answer.
    As you only need to black calibrate once it's not an issue, your not supposed to use batteries to do a Firmware update-
    Epic M owner
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  3. #3  
    Quote Originally Posted by Randall Brown View Post
    Just a FYI for the community. The black calibration on the current Beta Firmware 2.05 takes 70% of a red volt running the LCD on the lowest setting for brightness. I was stressed that the red volt would run out before the calibration completes. I am out in the hills of Jamaica and away from AC. I searched the forums an couldn't find the answer.
    We will be filming in a remote area this summer, we will be investing in gas powered electric generators.
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  4. #4  
    Senior Member Johnny Friday's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Williams View Post
    As you only need to black calibrate once it's not an issue, your not supposed to use batteries to do a Firmware update-
    Yes, not recommended for sure, because someone WILL do this on battery power and run out of battery. BUT, if you have no choice in the field on a hill in the desert; on a rock or on the dark side of the moon, better have a fully charged brick---i do mine 95% of time on battery, but full bricks when out in the field as i rarely have 110v.

    ....as for black-shading: there's a long list of when it's recommended to do (not only once) when you go to longer exposures over 1/2 second you should BS; or when you overcrank you should BS; load a new firmware; begin a new project---the list goes on. Better to bury those dead pixels than ruin a shot. I recall Deanan made a list of WHEN to BS and it's quite extensive. I'm a firm believer having left a camera 3 weeks and shooting and then finding strange characters and red muck on all my images from that day. A blackshade took care of it.
    John Friday
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  5. #5  
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    Yea. Not a firmware update, just the black calibration. I would never do a firmware update on battery power. But as for black shading, it sometimes has to be done. Today we were on a track in Jamaica. Black shading could have been done in the hotel. But I swear I can see a different in my images on my M, if I don't calibrate while running in hot and humid conditions. Maybe not yours. I am taking notes and saving still frames for a later post. But yea, don't update your firmware with a redvolt!
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  6. #6  
    Senior Member paulherrin's Avatar
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    the black shading is best done in the environment it will be in, as the temperature certainly affects sensor noise
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    Senior Member N_Villers's Avatar
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    Is there a reason beyond the possibility of running out of batteries to do a firmware update and subsequent black shading? It is stated in the firmware notes that the sidehandle must be disconnected as well. I would love to hear from red the reason.
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