Scarlet #00006 - Tests (including R3Ds)

[John Brennick]

Best most natural grade thus far. This frame looks really nice. Awesome job Brandon!

[Arnold F.]

Did I miss the videos of the brown, cardboard boxes being opened?

[Brandon J.F.]

Thanks John.

No video of that was made Arnold ;)

Below is a short video clip of one of the shots I posted a still from. I'll be posting a second longer video clip of a different shot soon.




I shot the wide landscape shots below yesterday and I was really not pleased with the results. LOMO lenses are amazing for people and faces. I love the results I am getting with these types of shots. But for wide shots, especially where there is a lot of detail (e.g. trees) the quality is just not there. My plan now is to rent proper cine glass, master primes or ultra primes, for the wide establishing shots I need and shooting the rest with the LOMO lenses.

[Brandon J.F.]

LOMO 35mm wide open (T1.7). A quick grade in Premiere Pro CS 5.5.

[Brandon J.F.]

I accidentally uploaded a version of this shot with some bad image stabilization. Here it is without any.

[Andy White]

Are you always shooting wide open? You might get a much sharper and more precise look for your wides by shooting at a higher T-stop.

It might be worth checking the lens collimation too, sometimes, the closer to infinity these lenses get, they can get soft - this combined with wide open shooting might be giving you the softness you don't like?

Getting the lenses checked out would be a wise move before starting on your feature - and may save you having to rent lenses :)

[Brandon J.F.]

No, not always. I'm not wide open on any of the wide shots. In fact I'm fully stopped down on the first ones I did (T16) and was even then overexposed. I will get the lenses checked out because they are soft at infinity like you describe. Thanks for the advice!

[Andy White]

No problem :) You may want to shoot some test charts to confirm where your focus goes soft. Another thing that might be slightly 'off' is the OCT19 to PL conversion - a mm can be a big distance on a lens.

This remounting, if not done really well, often ends up in loosing infinty focus... so it might be a case of shimming or re-mounting... but again, if this helps get your set working fully, I think you'd be better off shooting the whole project on the same lenses. It'll have a consistent look and make grading simpler.

Keep updating and enjoying your tests ;)

[Harrison Diamond]

Also don't forget by stopping down past about f/11 you're going to have softening from diffraction. That could be part of the issue.

[Brandon J.F.]

Andy, I do have a lens chart, but haven't shot it yet. I will do it this weekend. I'm also going to try to find someone local that can test, and if need be service, the lenses. Thanks again for the help.

Harrison, I didn't realize that. I will definitely look into this as well. Thanks.