It's important to mention that you have to be absolutely sure that your lens marks are correct. otherwise you are setting incorrect base line for your system and all bets are off...
I will say that yes, you need to use a lens you know is calibrated correctly to check the body backfocus and I would not use still lenses for this. The Optitek Optimator is also very useful if you change mounts often. It is certainly possible to do yourself but only if you have the knowledge and understanding of the limitations. Since I have my lenses checked out every 6 months or so I feel confident using them to check the camera. However the Titanium PL mount of the Epic is very solid and I have yet to even need to adjust mine.
Heh heh. Thanks for adjusting my backfocus with the Optitek Optimator Evin. Appreciate it!
No, it's the only way. Certainly one can work his or her way to a somewhat correct backfocus on the camera using a properly set lens. But there is no way to collimate a lens itself without the correct tools. A collimator costs many tens of thousands of dollars and the precision shims used to set the mount are measured in microns.
Have just acquired a Nikon 14-24, give it a go, you won't be sorry.Really like my Duclos Cine-mods ZFs and his 11-16mm here!
I'm sot saying it's a good idea, but myself and many a 1st AC has had to make a "Field adjustment" to a lens that just wasn't holding focus. Certain lenses like older Cooke zooms are easier than others, I woukdn't crackopen a Master prime or Leica Summilux-c which I hear can only be calibrated with a laser (can anyone confirm this?).
It does not cost many tens of thousands of dollars.
Perhaps collimating a lens is different than collimating a camera sensor/or moving the camera sensor.....if that makes any sense.
What I was really trying to ask earlier was if your backfocus if off a bit can you still get sharp imagery
with your lens even though the lens distance marking will not match the real world distance?
Or in other words, if your lens had NO markings on it, could you still get a sharp image even if the
backfocus was off a bit?
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