Looking for tutorials, bts of hmi lights

[Joel Arvidsson]

Anybody have any links with video with tutorial or bts where you se how they used hmi?
This is a good example.
http://vimeo.com/9886305

I work mostly with fluorescent and led but starting to look at something "stronger" that you could bounch of the celing, shoot throw silk and still throw the light far, simulate sun throw a window and even light with exterior at day time.



Also I wonder if some one here have worked with either "CL-MF0575 Cool Lights HMI Fresnel" or "CL-MP1200 Cool Lights 1200w HMI Par" and what you think about them.

[Peter Dmitriyev]

i'm curious about what people think of coollights also as I'm in the same boat and considering going in on my first HMI soon and can't afford the arri's and moles

[ednammour]

I've bought Cool Lights gear over the years and find them to be an excellent resource. I started with their LEDs and some of Richard Andrewski's DIY solutions, but eventually needed something punchier -- so I bought their CL-MP1200, which is an outstanding unit.

This my experience:

1. Richard -- or his wingman Patrick -- is prompt in his response to email questions or customer service issues.
2. They actually pick up the phone (or get back to you pretty fast once you've left a message.)
3. Their equipment is VERY well made. Richard engineers it all (this is his expertise I understand) and it is all extremely robust and has a rental-house build quality.
4. I thought about buying an equivalent Chinese unit on ebay -- but realized that if I had a problem, servicing would be close to impossible. Richard's stuff is made in China but serviced in the US (though I've never had to take advantage of this, thank gawd.)
5. My 1200 HMI is one great light. The head is well built. The lenses are as well. The ballast seems identical to the ARRI units I've used except for some details on the top. At first I was concerned about head noise, but soon discovered it was identical to ARRI in a side by side comparison (bulbs vibrate and hum....that's what they do). I was basically being too freaky-obsessive. Richard personally talked me off the ledge on that one. The ballast runs flicker free and is dimmable as well.
6. Uses the same bulbs as the ARRI units.

Things I've had to do myself: make a case for the 1200. Sadly, CoolLights doesn't make cases. I used the custom packing foam from the shipping box, and had a custom crate cut from a resource on ebay. Works great and was cost-effective. I made a strain relief for the header cable for 2 bucks. Also, had a problem with a loose nob on my ballast, but Patrick solved that one for me. I don't think it's unreasonable for you to ask them to give your gear a once over before shipping it. I think they would do that.

Bottom line, my Coollights gear has traveled with me all over the country and NEVER performed less than 100%. My 1200 is my go-to light when I need a "big punch." Hope this helps.

[ian dart]

hi joel

check out www.andrewlocklighting.com.au

go to photo gallery on his home page, lots of bts.

cheers

[Jay Hanamura]

I took a shot on the 575 and I'm happy to report that everything is excellent. The fixture and ballast are well made and the light is clean. What more could I ask for....oh yeah it was about half the price of anything else out there.

Since my experience with the 575 has gone so well, my next move is to go with the 1200. Definitely looking forward to that addition.

oh and Richard at Cool lights has promptly and thoroughly answered all my questions. It's comforting to know that the company takes care of its customers.

[Joel Arvidsson]

Thanks for all the replies. I wanted to add that I allready have 2 lights from coolights. Cool Lights CL-MF0150 CD and the
600 led but wanted to know more about the 1200 and how you are working with your hmis.

[Christopher Mills]

If using HMI lights regularly, I suggest using a color meter to check color temp of each head at start of the shoot... and write it on a piece of tape you put on the bale of the light. This will help you determine if (or how much) color correction gel to apply to make them match..
especially important if you rent your lights.

Beware the "hot Restrike" many models want cool down time for the ignitor to re-set and allow the light to come back on..
Also, deploy them with both ballast and head switched off. after they are placed, and connected, turn on the ballast first, look for the standby light to illuminate on the head, then turn on the head.

If a head won't light up make sure all safety microswitches and access openings are clean, properly alligned, and closed..
many times a head will be balky because the safety switch in the bulb access door is sticking.

if you use PARs, be aware that you should be using at least a clear UV glass in front, if not a focusing lens... dont try to use a bare bulb... you will get a very high does of UV light..

Have a pro service the internal parts.. these are transformers using deadly voltage levels.. (so make sure that neither heads, cables, nor ballasts are getting wet

Make sure to plug into correctly grounded power sources as well...

They draw more amps on start up than the rated running amperage.. learn what each one is doing, and spread your load evenly accross your power source.