I have major hd-sdi and hdmi problems with this build. When trying to output on both the sdi and hmdi port, one of the 2 doesn't work. When i change the herz of the hdmi, the SDI output suddenly doesn't work anymore, etc. That kind of stuff.
This really should get fixed, on a c300 i never ever have problems with outputs behaving strange, but on the epic, also in previous build sdi and hdmi are acting quite strange.
I would like to suggest some requests and I wonder, if not more user would agree with me....?
1. to have the option of a complete power shut down. I would like to keep my so little power source inside the sidehandle. But I remove it all the time, because it does drain the battery - very little, but does. If I can leave the battery in, it would also not wear that battery clip holder out fast.
2. This is for those whose eyesight is not that what it used to be:
to have an option, to make the timecode numbers a little bigger as well.
3. I had requested that long time ago (still on the RED One) and Steward said, that will be easy to implement:
something like a timer.
I often have to time my shots, e.g. 20 sec or 30 sec or whatever. Have to look at the timecode (actually edge code) and calculate.
Or using a stopwatch (which I mostly forget to bring with me.)
Or maybe... even better... like the interval setting has a frame limiter.... if that would be possible for normal run time, that would be great!\\
In 4.0.x you can change the size and location of any overlay item. The large setting for the Timecode might be too big in your case, but we can look at adding more sizes.
The frame limiter is active in continuous mode. That is, I believe you can achieve why you are asking for already.
Also, could you add a "marker" system that you can trigger in camera while shooting by pressing a button ? This could be very useful when scrubbing through long takes in RCX trying to find a given moment. Even if it couldn't be exported afterwards it still could be handy.
Great news to hear.. Thanks Jarred and the Red Team!
I think that this happens if I press the button too long. Trying to hold it only for a few seconds and it seems better. That is a strange functionality
thank you, clear on the limit frames now works great, but not sure, how I could activate the bigger fonts?
Could you please give some help on that?
Also, a little confusion on my side:
I recently bought the Nikon Mount, in order to enjoy the autofocus, I also bought the Micro Nikon 60mm.
I learned, Touching the screen with your finger anywhere, it will focus there.
Problem No. 1: I saw a demo at RED Tokyo. While the lens is seeking focus, there is a green (or yellow) light showing up, to show, that the lens is focusing.
It never happen in my case, no light at all..... (only the Tally light when recording)
Problem No. 2: after touching the portion on the screen I want in focus, I press the record button, it happens many times while pressing, the seek focus function (pressing the button half way) is activated and the lens starts trying to start focus again, but at that time I m already at the recording position and the camera records a totally out of focus image.
I am sure, I must have overseen something..?
And also 1 more question: in the Focus Menu I have Brain HDMI and Brain SDI HDI. I don't know, which one applies to using the 5" LCD screen and where, if any, is the difference.
2. Select 'Standard (Red)' from list on Left
3. Press [Clone...]
4. You are now in the Overlay Editor
5. Press on the [TC] box in the lower right (this is the Timecode)
6. Change size to 'Large'. As I said before this will probably be too large for you as it is intended for reading from long distance
7. Press [Save]
8. Name the new overlay
9. Press [Create]
10. Goto: Settings->Display->Monitor Control->Monitor Tab
11. Chose the monitor you are using (e.g. Brain LCD)
12. Change the Overlay setting to your newly created overlay
Here is what it should look like:
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