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Robert Hofmeyr
09-19-2014, 11:05 AM
I’ve pre-ordered the Offhollywood Hotlink, but I’m now wondering if I perhaps should have gone with the Redlink Bridge. They cost much the same. Hotlink: $450, Bridge: $395. The Hotlink is lighter and uses much less power. The Bridge can also be used with Red’s T.H.C. The Hotlink requires 2 cables and uses the CNTRL port, whereas the Bridge is a module.


Obviously, the biggest issue with the current Bridge is that it’s an end module, so it blocks the A-mount on the back of the camera. I’m sure Red will release an updated version later, but I’d rather not wait.


I was thinking about buying a Redlink Bridge, taking it apart and cramming the innards into an Adapter Module I have lying around, but I’m not sure if that is possible (or wise).


Does anyone have any further thoughts or additional pros and cons? In particular, I’d be interested to hear from those of you using the Redlink Bridge. Any issues? How’s the range?


Thanks,
Rob

Mikael Lubtchansky
09-22-2014, 11:06 AM
the HOTLink uses the CTRL port not the GIG-E

so it means the GIG-E is still free for other uses if needed but also means you won't be able to plug the WMD into the camera at the same time to take control of PL glass.

Mark will certainly be making more modules with other features but the main advantage of the first HOTLink model is the size and flexibility to let everyone use their REDVolt XL, VLock or Gold mount batteries without changing their setup to fit the REDLink Bridge...

REDLink Bridge is sold at a cool price because it does not include all the modularity bits and cables a +1 module has to carry, and as such was always advertised as a developer kit by RED... when coding I use my camera on AC power anyway (and joyfully cram hours on my camera meter too...)

That still didn't stop the brave and crazy ones to start using it everywhere with the beta firmware to control cameras on set via SH REDVolts or VLocks on rails or on a battery belt clip :-)

more options is good, just choose your weapon...

facebook link (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=613087665469290&set=a.599528910158499.1073741826.100003041869752&type=1&fref=nf)


https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10676356_613087665469290_1125895114905076502_n.jpg ?oh=93c010669e2526134b45110a90bedba6&oe=553A99EA&__gda__=1429146422_eff6bee0e34d6af51479b5ffba456bf 1

Bob Gundu
09-22-2014, 11:11 AM
Hotlink... no question.

Robert Hofmeyr
09-22-2014, 01:32 PM
the HOTLink uses the CTRL port not the GIG-E

Thanks for the correction Mikael. I'll update my original post.

charles lim yi yong
01-06-2015, 01:59 AM
why is hotlink better?

Chris Jordan
01-30-2015, 08:19 AM
Does anyone know the weight difference? This will be on a Movi, on our HL drone.

Also does Fool control connect easier than the redmote did? As in, If I fly the drone away out of range then back, will I have to manually stop recording, or do you think it will reconnect easily enough to not waste time?

Chris McKechnie
01-30-2015, 10:32 AM
Does anyone know the weight difference? This will be on a Movi, on our HL drone.

Also does Fool control connect easier than the redmote did? As in, If I fly the drone away out of range then back, will I have to manually stop recording, or do you think it will reconnect easily enough to not waste time?

I use a MoVI/Epic and Hotlink all the time and is my go-to setup.

Also does Fool control connect easier than the redmote did? As in, If I fly the drone away out of range then back, will I have to manually stop recording, or do you think it will reconnect easily enough to not waste time?[/QUOTE]

Hotlink no question. The hotlink is definitely lighter than the redbridge. With gimbal work especially, that added thickness the redbridge adds just makes it more difficult for camera tilts. You can power the hotlink off of D-Tap or even a Lipo (which is how I power it - lasts ALL day). Lighter the better for gimbal work.

Foolcontrol is an amazing app. Once you connect your phone to the hotlink wifi, fool control automatically connects once the app is launched. If your phone screen shuts off...it automatically reconnects with the camera, making setting changes a breeze. If you're flying, you could push record, fly away, then it will take a few seconds for your phone to find the wifi, connect, then you're good to go.

I've only noticed one bug with the app...when the camera goes into power save mode and fool control is launched, it will actually change the FPS on the camera to like 12 fps and you no longer have control over the camera. So you have to go to the camera head, get it out of power save by hitting any button, then you're good to go again. Not a big deal, just turn off power save on the camera. :-)

Fredrik Callinggard
01-30-2015, 12:16 PM
Hotlink all the way. REDLink ties up the back of the camera and is very annoying if you want to have your battery there LOL

Mikael Lubtchansky
01-30-2015, 01:00 PM
I use a MoVI/Epic and Hotlink all the time and is my go-to setup.

I've only noticed one bug with the app...when the camera goes into power save mode and fool control is launched, it will actually change the FPS on the camera to like 12 fps and you no longer have control over the camera. So you have to go to the camera head, get it out of power save by hitting any button, then you're good to go again. Not a big deal, just turn off power save on the camera. :-)

Hi Chris... I'm on BSC show tomorrow but will look into it first thing next week see if I can reproduce the bug and fix it..

I do not use auto power save on my camera so bever bumped into it... Manual sleep and wake up via the app does seem to work fine tho for me. Did you try to use the WAKE button in foolcontrol power menu (lower right on main screen where you can shutdown the cam)

Thanks for the report and feel free to email me more details...

Mike Garrick
01-30-2015, 03:20 PM
Redlink works fine , battery issue is easily solved and no more cabling.

ps. Those asking if either wifi option is better than a redmote, no decision wifi leaves redmote for dead.

martinnoweck
01-31-2015, 01:39 AM
anyone using Foolcontrol with a wireless router (non REDLINK non HOTLINK) and the RED GIG-E cable:

http://www.red.com/store/products/lemo-to-cat5e-ethernet-cable-9

is it possible?

best wishes and kind regards,
martin

Mikael Lubtchansky
01-31-2015, 01:50 AM
It is possible and works well. The only problem is finding a portable, easy to power from camera GIG-E router.

All the small ones are only 10/100 as they are often made for residential use and since wifi cannot reach GIG-E speed...

And altho the foolcontrol bandwith is very small, sadly the ethernet interface on camera requires GIG-E on the other end.

Wil Wong
01-31-2015, 02:16 AM
I too went with the Redlink cause it has no cables AND I would use it while using Redvolts say on a Ronin. Guess I just rather have less cables and a clean setup and save the extra cost. I also don't have anywhere to mount the hotlink since I don't put on any plates/cage.

If you don't mind having lots of stuff connected on the camera or use V-mount/AB batteries as your main power source, I think the hotlink is the better choice. Redlink is good if you don't need another module at the back.

Jarek Zabczynski
01-31-2015, 06:45 PM
I don't understand why they didn't make the Redlink module with an open back for more modules. Wasn't that the whole point of the design?

Peter Majtan
01-31-2015, 07:12 PM
Wil - you can mount the HOTLINK directly to the top of the camera in front of the cooling fan - it will attach to the ¼-20 taps on the front edge of the camera right above the lens mount - you don't need any plates, etc...

Jarek - the current REDLINK was meant for developers to give them head-start on developing apps and solutions for the new protocol. RED has clearly mentioned that more modules and accessories with the REDLINK protocol would be released later on...

:sifone: Peter

Wil Wong
01-31-2015, 11:13 PM
Good point Peter but that's where I put the 5" Touch monitor. Not a fan of putting the monitor on arms.

Mikael Lubtchansky
02-01-2015, 12:22 AM
Good point Peter but that's where I put the 5" Touch monitor. Not a fan of putting the monitor on arms.

On super compact setup you can always velcro the hotlink on the side of your camera as it very small or fix it on a tactical Z even if you have no top plate or anything...

Jonathan Petts
02-01-2015, 09:28 AM
You can use the RedLink with an on camera battery solution -

Here is ours

http://i.imgur.com/ZaFeTNd.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5wAJDk8.jpg


No issues with signal when we tested the signal range, you still have the ability to mount what ever you want as the mounting screw positions are still there.

It is also low cost and if you dont want your ports by the Hotlink taken up (+ spending $50) it opens up your ports.

Of course if you have other modules on the back such as the I/O but for those who just need battery solutions, I have found this to be ideal.


Jonny


EDIT - Also I was talking to Mikael at BSC and he had a theroy that they didnt add the moudule adapter on the back because of power passing thorugh the unit may have cost more or was a bit tricky with this sepcific unit (additionally this is only beta and many never get a full release).

Wil Wong
02-01-2015, 09:33 AM
I believe someone had also converted the RedLink into a adapter module...or at least I think they tried to. Can't remember if they were successful.

Mikael Lubtchansky
02-01-2015, 10:32 AM
I believe someone had also converted the RedLink into a adapter module...or at least I think they tried to. Can't remember if they were successful.

Bjorn did successfuly hack a wifi->serial module into his +1 module...

http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?124783-Wifi-1-module-Syndicated

Robert Hofmeyr
02-01-2015, 12:16 PM
I actually ordered the Hotlink, then changed my mind, cancelled the order and got the Redlink. I did take a look inside the Redlink and the adapter module, hoping I could make a plan to move the innards of the Redlink into the adapter module (even if I just ended up with a dumb A-mount on the back). Unfortunately the board in the Redlink is a bit too tall to fit in the adapter module.

Jamon Lewis
02-01-2015, 08:31 PM
I'd get the Redlink

Christoffer Glans
02-06-2015, 06:41 AM
If you want to use the quickplate module you can't use the redlink bridge so I'd say the hotlink is the better choice for modularity.

Terry VerHaar
02-06-2015, 10:14 AM
I jumped on the REDLink right away; before the HotLink was released. It works very well with Foolcontrol and it stays on my camera on my Helix (it isn't very heavy and not all that thick. The only down side I see is the issue of a rear battery. I can run with a side handle, a detached place for RED bricks or the rear Quad module (with the REDLink attached behind it. And it does look very clean and sort of cool. On the Helix, I just run off the Helix battery.

All that said, if the HotLink had been available, I might have gone for that just for the flexible attachment options. Either way Foolcontrol is the bomb!

Enrique Blein
02-07-2015, 09:35 AM
What's the lightest way to power the Hotlink? Can someone provide a link...thanks

charles lim yi yong
02-08-2015, 05:58 AM
redlink ----- want to use vmount batteries?
try this . http://store.freeflysystems.com/products/epic-vlock-adapter-kit
works great for mounting on gimbals

Benjamin Granet
02-08-2015, 02:15 PM
Chris,

I don't think you should use this on your HL drone, the hotlink is using 2.4 GHz frequency. The same as your controller. If you want to loose the control of your machine, this would be the best solution.

The problem is well known, mostly with people using the wifi of their GoPro on a Phantom 2.

I wanted to buy it but didn't because of this problem.

Just saying

Mark L. Pederson
02-08-2015, 06:49 PM
Chris,

I don't think you should use this on your HL drone, the hotlink is using 2.4 GHz frequency. The same as your controller. If you want to loose the control of your machine, this would be the best solution.

The problem is well known, mostly with people using the wifi of their GoPro on a Phantom 2.

I wanted to buy it but didn't because of this problem.

Just saying

You can change the channel on the HOTLINK via the HTML interface. Super simple. If you know what channel your drone controller is - you set the HOTLINK to a different channel. Done.

Christoffer Glans
02-09-2015, 04:41 AM
Mark, what is the delivery time at this moment for people like myself in Europe if we order now?

Benjamin Granet
02-09-2015, 10:15 AM
Thanks Mark, good to know.

Mark L. Pederson
02-09-2015, 12:16 PM
Mark, what is the delivery time at this moment for people like myself in Europe if we order now?

CVP (http://cvp.com/) is going to handle EU sales for OFFHOLLYWOOD products moving forward - waiting for next batch to come out of the oven and get them some inventory. I suspect 3 weeks from today - maybe sooner. OFFHOLLYWOOD will still sell direct to anyone at the moment - and we are less than two weeks to ship new orders - but by NAB I intend to only sell direct in USA and let some chosen, well respected resellers abroad handle the stuff overseas.

Mikael Lubtchansky
02-09-2015, 12:20 PM
CVP is a good choice, and UK is following closely the US in term of interest in the system...

Last week I was in Pinewood for British Cinematographer Society expo (BSCexpo) and most of the RED rental houses exhibiting had a HOTLink + foolcontrol setup on display :-)

Thanks John Marchant btw for the booth invite btw

Christoffer Glans
02-10-2015, 09:36 AM
Hmm, I have a shoot where I need the Hotlink in about three weeks time. What do you think is the best course of action for me at this time?

Meryem Ersoz
02-10-2015, 10:06 AM
This is my cheap and simple Redlink Bridge mounting solution.

I repurposed the old Element Technica 19mm rod mount V-lock plate, with a $20 bolt on 19mm rod. It's very solid and actually nicely balanced off the back of the camera. It may look slightly janky but doesn't feel that way at all. I like the look of the freefly solution and may wind up buying it, but this is a good option if you already own the 19mm clamp plate.

This plate was one of the early V-mount solutions from ET which was tossed in the backup bin once better battery mounting solutions came along.

But when it comes to RED, I've learned to never get rid of any widgets. They all seem to come back into play.

***edit - well, reduser seems to want to flip the image upside down, and I don't see a way to fix that - so if you want a closer look, you'll have to flip it. silly thing.***

....or you can see it flipped on Mark's RED Rigging post... howdhedodat? http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?127918-RED-Rigging

Jamon Lewis
02-10-2015, 09:34 PM
This is my cheap and simple Redlink Bridge mounting solution.

I repurposed the old Element Technica 19mm rod mount V-lock plate, with a $20 bolt on 19mm rod. It's very solid and actually nicely balanced off the back of the camera. It may look slightly janky but doesn't feel that way at all. I like the look of the freefly solution and may wind up buying it, but this is a good option if you already own the 19mm clamp plate.

This plate was one of the early V-mount solutions from ET which was tossed in the backup bin once better battery mounting solutions came along.

But when it comes to RED, I've learned to never get rid of any widgets. They all seem to come back into play.

***edit - well, reduser seems to want to flip the image upside down, and I don't see a way to fix that - so if you want a closer look, you'll have to flip it. silly thing.***

....or you can see it flipped on Mark's RED Rigging post... howdhedodat? http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?127918-RED-Rigging

Wow, great solution, how did you think to do that? I have 3 AB plates, this solution could have saved me one of them.

Meryem Ersoz
02-10-2015, 10:29 PM
thanks, Jamon - well, my initial instinct was to run a single rod mounted to the top handle straight down the middle of the camera back and let it dangle behind the redlink. but that option felt a little too loose, and the 19mm clamp has a tendency to lose grip and sag with the weight of the battery. The whole setup was too floppy and unsatisfying.

The bolt-on 19mm rod doesn't slip, and mounting the ET plate horizontally across the back instead of vertically along the side of the cam or behind the Redlink also eliminates the "flop" which occurred with side- or rear-mounting. The plate doesn't budget in this position and doesn't interfere with the Redlink at all.

it's always about digging into the box o' widgets until something works.

Jamon Lewis
02-11-2015, 12:28 AM
Yeah, now that I see the pic straight up I can really see it, this set up leaves the battery in a pretty good position. That's cool.

Christoffer Glans
02-14-2015, 07:40 AM
I've been trying out a homemade wifi-thingy made by Björn Benckert at Syndicate and it works very well for setting up the camera using Fool control.
Now I have tried the internal focusing and it's extremely disappointing. I know that this wifi-circuit isn't as robust as the Hotlink so it might have interference by other wifi signals (even though I shut down my own internet wifi while testing) but I've looked at the Optitron2 videos and find it seems similar in some instances.

I cannot get a smooth operating focus change between two points. I've programmed two points using fool control and rack focused between them, but it's no way near what is professionally acceptable. It seems that some lenses are worse than others. My 24-70 2.8 II is one of canons best zooms and it performs really awful. My Sigma 35mm 1.8 art performs much better but still not perfect. When I look at the Optitron2 video posted in the internal focus thread I could make out "some" of this "jerky" behavior when changing focus.
On top of that, the sound of the internal focus is really loud. There have been tests to show that it is within "acceptable volume", but I know for certain that it isn't and if I were to ever shoot a close up of someone talking and then change focus to behind her it would definetely be picked up by the sound guy.

Can someone please explain to me some of this internal focus behavior? I was hyped before, but this is not really working for a professional shoot. With all the problems of short throw and so on, I find that much more workable and acceptable because at least I get a smooth focus instead of jerky loud ones. A skilled focus puller would manage short throws most of the time anyway.

Here's a video of the jerky focusing using my 24-70mm 2.8 II.
https://vimeo.com/119630325
Password: focus

Here's some additional footage
https://vimeo.com/119630326
Password: focus


I've tried the rack focus within the Epic itself without fool control and when going from point A to point B it behaves somewhat the same.
Maybe it's a problem with my Epic instead? I hope not.

Jacek Zakowicz
02-14-2015, 07:39 PM
Don't let the fool control fool you Chris ;-) I have never tried it but the general consensus about it here is very good. Including the focus control feature.
We've got through initial hurdles with EFF quite a while ago and smoothness repeatability, no latency are as good as anything else. You need to watch the camera and the mount (make sure you follow the procedure installing the lenses and plugging the system components in) - after all this is completely new concept- but we now have many OptiTrons in the field and positive feedback. On the other hand- if the camera does not control the focus smoothly on its own (some lenses are better supported than others because thy were implemented earlier and continuously improved over longer period, or they are more straight forward to control) there is nothing we can do as we only send commands to the camera. Try the 85mm f1.2 Canon. It's a wonderfully smooth lens and it is very well supported. If that lens gives you trouble it must be your camera or the mount

Mark L. Pederson
02-14-2015, 07:48 PM
(some lenses are better supported than others because thy were implemented earlier and continuously improved over longer period, or they are more straight forward to control) there is nothing we can do as we only send commands to the camera. Try the 85mm f1.2 Canon. It's a wonderfully smooth lens and it is very well supported. If that lens gives you trouble it must be your camera or the mount

100% agree. Not all Canon lenses give you the same quality/smooth electronic controlled mechanics.

Mikael Lubtchansky
02-15-2015, 04:25 AM
Hi Christopher

not sure what is wrong exactly in your setup but it sure looks jumpy.
I tried it with many different lenses and never saw something like that, except in very very bad wifi conditions. If the handmade wifi receiver has a poor or wrong antenna type you may have a culprit here... But as you mention it works better with some lenses than others and you get the same problems using camera's rack focus feature there could also be an issue with the mount / lens itself.

I just did a few new test here using REDLink and a Canon 40 mm which without being the smoothest lens is very usable in both manual "multi turns re-mapped" mode and rack focusing. Handy for many small camera setups or small team, small budget projects. I will try to borrow a 24-70 USM II and test it soon as I've mainly used it with some Nikons zoom recently.

Now you do hear the motor noise while focusing and it shows typical characteristics of photo lenses... and it is not ready yet to replace a good cine lens and any high end follow focus system.

Christoffer Glans
02-15-2015, 04:53 AM
Alright, I'm hoping it's not a faulty camera/mount. I have tested it without using fool control or the wifi-circuit and only used the internal rack focus of the Epic; it behaves the same as with fool control.
So either it's the lens or it's the mount or both.

I'm very disappointed with the 24-70mm 2.8 II if it's the lens that behaves like this. This was supposed to be my primary lens due to it's perfect zoom range and aperture. Can't believe that Canons best zoom behave like this.

The lenses I have at the moment and the ones I've tested are

Canon 24-70mm 2.8 II = Behaves badly, skips, no smooth focus racking at all.
Canon 17-40mm 4L = Slightly better than 24-70mm, but still not really workable. Also harder to see if it's worse due to high aperture and wide angle.
Canon 50mm 1.8 II = Very plastic lens so the focus ability is not really good, it cannot even be initiated by the camera and misses marks when rack focusing. Totally unworkable with internal motor.
Canon 85mm 1.8 II = Slightly better than the 24-70mm, but no where near acceptable.
Sigma 35mm 1.4 ART = Best of the five lenses, it gives a smooth rack focus but it randomly skips. Probably the lens that will work the best in this lineup, but I wouldn't feel safe doing actual work when it "might" skip focus in some takes (what if that take was the best take for the actors?).

Do you have any experience with testing any of these lenses? Would be nice to hear if you have. With five quite popular lenses that aren't really good for using the internal motor I'm not sure internal focusing is really ready for high end productions.

I'm curious to know why the Canon 85mm 1.2 is working so much better than the 85mm 1.8 I have, from what I know about Canons lenses the 85mm 1.2 and the 1.8 has the same internal motor, it's just built slightly different (L vs normal). But because both the 17-40mm and the 24-70mm, which both are in the L-series doesn't work very good, the L-series isn't a quality mark for internal motors.
The Sigma 35mm is the best of them all and that's not even within the line of Canon lenses.

So which lenses do actually work and reach a quality of focus pulling that competes with pulling manually? Because if non really reach the smooth operation of pulling manually I'm not even sure why the internal motors are such a big deal? I wouldn't accept watching skipping focus on a big screen, that's never acceptable.

Mikael Lubtchansky
02-15-2015, 06:07 AM
If you can, try to make a proper test with a real hotlink or REDLink module...
And if possible see if you can test on a different camera / lens mount combo.

In my experience it does not skip like that in normal network situation and is really usable and smooth when set on 2, 3 or 5 x turns per lens focus range.

That said get a preston with cine primes and you will certainly enjoy a far better experience than an app and internal motors on photo lenses...

Antony Newman
02-15-2015, 06:07 AM
The lenses attempt to move Large or Micro amounts when it has been communicated with.

If the lens is asked to move to the next location before its had a change to asynchronously move to the last point ... it can sometimes loose where it is (or at least that was experience of the DryOs).

The granularity of the Large and Micro steps - determines the minimum jumpiness.
The rate of change of AF of the lens determines the minimum fluidity.

AJ

Mark Phelan
02-15-2015, 06:30 AM
If you can, try to make a proper test with a real hotlink or REDLink module...
And if possible see if you can test on a different camera / lens mount combo.

In my experience it does not skip like that in normal network situation and is really usable and smooth when set on 2, 3 or 5 x turns per lens focus range.

That said get a preston with cine primes and you will certainly enjoy a far better experience than an app and internal motors on photo lenses...

I'll echo Mikael's comment. In my limited experience with the rack focus feature built into the camera, my Canon 24-70 works quite well and smooth, so there is hope.

Christoffer Glans
02-15-2015, 07:01 AM
I'll echo Mikael's comment. In my limited experience with the rack focus feature built into the camera, my Canon 24-70 works quite well and smooth, so there is hope.

But that's just it, it skips focus and behaves just as bad when doing in-cam rack focus. If you check out the video I linked to then you'll see just how bad it is. If your 24-70mm behave better then that then I think I have a problem with my mount or camera.

Mark Phelan
02-15-2015, 08:16 AM
Christoffer,

I did watch your clip and you're right, it's bad, definitely some issue. My 24-70 is not working like that at all, but smoothly as one might expect. Yes, I would say there is something amiss somewhere in your rig and if I had to guess, my first look would be at the lens. Primarily because it looks to be a mechanical issue versus software. But since you say it's happening with other lenses, then the mount might be the second place I'd look, possibly the contacts. That's my read on it.

Jacek Zakowicz
02-15-2015, 09:01 AM
maybe I can get the 24-70 II next week and make videos with it and the 85mm f1.2 for comparison

Christoffer Glans
02-15-2015, 12:06 PM
Thanks for the test! :smiley:

The first one is much much better than what I can achieve, but I see the same things in the second one. I get that it's impossible to do everything as good as smooth manual focus pulling but in the end, the money I put on tech that enables focus pulling through wifi with the internal motors is not very well spent if it's not acceptable for professional work.

In that case it seems better to either get a great manual follow focus that enables some remapping of the short throw, or a wireless gearhead with the same capability. Some say that such a setup isn't good with still lenses, but with the right gear ring around the still lens focus ring it will both compensate for short throw and also be stable. The important thing is that the focus change need to be smooth and consistent.


maybe I can get the 24-70 II next week and make videos with it and the 85mm f1.2 for comparison

Would be great to hear your results. The 24-70mm is such a good lens to always have on your camera that it's a shame if it doesn't perform well.

Andrew Young
03-07-2015, 10:58 AM
Question to anyone who owns a RedLink Bridge: with a little surgery, do you think it would be possible to secure Red's Accessory V-Mount or Wooden Cam's A-Lock to the back of the RedLink, allowing one to piggyback a Wooden Cam Quick Back with battery to it? I realize this may not be the most solid solution, but the problem with the HotLink for me is that it uses the CTL port, which I would like to save for other accessories.

Apologies is this has already been addressed.

Mikael Lubtchansky
03-07-2015, 11:06 AM
Question to anyone who owns a RedLink Bridge: with a little surgery, do you think it would be possible to secure Red's Accessory V-Mount or Wooden Cam's A-Lock to the back of the RedLink, allowing one to piggyback a Wooden Cam Quick Back with battery to it? I realize this may not be the most solid solution, but the problem with the HotLink for me is that it uses the CTL port, which I would like to save for other accessories.

Apologies is this has already been addressed.

not a good idea at all imo.
best if you want to use the REDLink is to attach rails or a L plate to the bottom, top plate or to a side rail and attach battery on this.
Several people have made custom parts to do so but attaching something as heavy as a battery on the REDLink module is not something I'd recommend at all... I'd be confortable velcro-ing an audio receiver maybe but that's about it.

Andrew Young
03-08-2015, 12:25 AM
Thanks Mikael. Sound advice for sure. Just wishing the bridge to be a little different than it is...

Tommaso Alvisi
04-26-2015, 11:21 AM
Would be great to hear your results. The 24-70mm is such a good lens to always have on your camera that it's a shame if it doesn't perform well.

Christoffer...any update?

Have you tried the 24-70 Mark I ?

Christoffer Glans
04-27-2015, 05:28 AM
Christoffer...any update?

Have you tried the 24-70 Mark I ?

No updates, I upgraded to Dragon and the problem remains. I'm gonna borrow another EF mount and try, but I think it's the same on any camera. The Mark I I've heard works better, but it would be nice to hear someone else try another 24-70 Mark II.
In the meantime I will put money into a Bright Tangerine revolvr instead, feels like more solid investment.

Enrique Blein
11-06-2015, 06:19 AM
Hi all, can anyone recomend a USB power source? I'm very keen on the Hotlink and I'm looking for a trusted and proven USB power solution for it...

Matthew Quinn
11-06-2015, 06:51 AM
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1047665-REG/switronix_hypercore_98s_98wh_14_8v_v_mount_battery .html


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1046443-REG/switronix_jpx_v_epic_jetpack_x_v_mount_for.html

i use the Redlink.

i just attach this vmount jetpack to rails off the back of my camera, works very well with the Wifi module sandwiched between, both these items have USB, the jetpack stores power to work with out a battery on it, and should power your hotlink fine.


if all you need is power for the hotlink, you can use those little usb power brick things (cell phone chargers) but i dunno i would stick with real camera gear

Paramon Ivanovich
11-06-2015, 07:39 AM
how reliable is Redlink? My hotlink drops connection all the time, sometimes it restores connection, but most of the time "unable to join ....."

Mikael Lubtchansky
11-07-2015, 02:17 AM
Paramon, have you tried contacting offhollywood support for help ?
Is that using ad hoc mode or connected to a router ?
You should definitely try to change wifi channel if you kept it at default as it may be interfering with other surrounding networks.

Bryan Koss
11-08-2015, 04:52 AM
Yes I never had any issues with my Hotlink losing connection. Worked perfect for Foolcontrol!

Paramon Ivanovich
11-08-2015, 09:30 AM
Is that using ad hoc mode or connected to a router ?
You should definitely try to change wifi channel if you kept it at default as it may be interfering with other surrounding networks.
ad hoc and outdoors, very close proximity, i mean it is within 2-3 feet, it is great when it works, it lets me keep gimbal setup to minimum, but man, it's been frustrating in front of the clients.
i'll try to re-setup it again

Enrique Blein
11-09-2015, 01:24 PM
I Know I asked above but can anyone recomend a USB power source? I'm very keen on the Hotlink and I'm looking for a trusted and proven USB power solution for it...

JASPER GLAVANICS
09-25-2016, 02:30 AM
I just purchased bot the OffHollywood HotLink and the FoolControl App, however the app is not connecting to the camera.
My ios devices connect to the HotLink wifi, however no love anywhere else.

Anyone else had these issues and have resolved them?

Not too happy that ive spent over $800 with nothing to show for it ...

Im running an Epic Dragon. Have the HotLink powered via USB 5V, connected to the CNTRL port, set the red to Protocol setting etc etc ..

Mikael Lubtchansky
09-25-2016, 03:57 AM
I just purchased bot the OffHollywood HotLink and the FoolControl App, however the app is not connecting to the camera.
My ios devices connect to the HotLink wifi, however no love anywhere else.

Anyone else had these issues and have resolved them?

Not too happy that ive spent over $800 with nothing to show for it ...

Im running an Epic Dragon. Have the HotLink powered via USB 5V, connected to the CNTRL port, set the red to Protocol setting etc etc ..

As replied by email, please check (if you can) on a different camera to rule out any camera issue... then if you can connect to the hotlink but not to the camera it is possibly an issue with the hotlink cable since you do have everything else setup OK.

Maybe you can also try to reset the hotlink back to factory settings in case some settings were changed in the web UI... this should be explained on OH website or one of the FAQ links I've sent.

Lee M
10-21-2016, 07:48 AM
Does offhollywood or anyone still sell the hotlink? Has it been replaced by something else or better (I see this is a pretty old thread). I am in the market for something I can use the FoolControl app with, considering the redlink but I am hearing in this thread that the hotlink is better. How can I get a hold of one or is there something else more practical now on the market?

Mikael Lubtchansky
10-21-2016, 04:03 PM
Does offhollywood or anyone still sell the hotlink? Has it been replaced by something else or better (I see this is a pretty old thread). I am in the market for something I can use the FoolControl app with, considering the redlink but I am hearing in this thread that the hotlink is better. How can I get a hold of one or is there something else more practical now on the market?

I think the last batch produced by OH is now sold out... but you can still find some used HotLink or Hotbox as people move to DSMC2 and sell their wifi aks since it is built in new cameras...

As an alternative, you can use :
-a REDLink ... easy to use (no wires and config from camera UI) but requires batteries to be either before it (Dual / Quad REDVolts) or deported on rails / further to the back if using VLock.
- a Teradek COLR (wireless LUT box) offers a strong wifi radio that is compatible with foolcontrol (via DSMC1 GIG-E connector)
- a Latitude from RTMotion (offering options for wireless follow focus on electronic or manual lenses and more)

Manfred Baulig
10-25-2016, 10:04 AM
u can do it like we did last year. Get the Mövi battery plate and put the red bridge plate on the back and gaff a video Transmitter on the batt.
At the moment we use the paralinx ace on weapon.
Almost no cables on epic.

On weapon more cables, cause THC doesnt work as EF follow focus on DSMC2.
DSMC1 was much cleaner cablewise.