Thread: HotLink or Redlink Bridge

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  1. #31  
    Quote Originally Posted by Christoffer Glans View Post
    Mark, what is the delivery time at this moment for people like myself in Europe if we order now?
    CVP is going to handle EU sales for OFFHOLLYWOOD products moving forward - waiting for next batch to come out of the oven and get them some inventory. I suspect 3 weeks from today - maybe sooner. OFFHOLLYWOOD will still sell direct to anyone at the moment - and we are less than two weeks to ship new orders - but by NAB I intend to only sell direct in USA and let some chosen, well respected resellers abroad handle the stuff overseas.
    Mark L. Pederson
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  2. #32  
    Senior Member Mikael Lubtchansky's Avatar
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    CVP is a good choice, and UK is following closely the US in term of interest in the system...

    Last week I was in Pinewood for British Cinematographer Society expo (BSCexpo) and most of the RED rental houses exhibiting had a HOTLink + foolcontrol setup on display :-)

    Thanks John Marchant btw for the booth invite btw
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  3. #33  
    Senior Member Christoffer Glans's Avatar
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    Hmm, I have a shoot where I need the Hotlink in about three weeks time. What do you think is the best course of action for me at this time?
    "Using any digital cinema camera today is like sending your 35mm rolls to a standard lab. -Using a Red is like owning a dark room."
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  4. #34  
    This is my cheap and simple Redlink Bridge mounting solution.

    I repurposed the old Element Technica 19mm rod mount V-lock plate, with a $20 bolt on 19mm rod. It's very solid and actually nicely balanced off the back of the camera. It may look slightly janky but doesn't feel that way at all. I like the look of the freefly solution and may wind up buying it, but this is a good option if you already own the 19mm clamp plate.

    This plate was one of the early V-mount solutions from ET which was tossed in the backup bin once better battery mounting solutions came along.

    But when it comes to RED, I've learned to never get rid of any widgets. They all seem to come back into play.

    ***edit - well, reduser seems to want to flip the image upside down, and I don't see a way to fix that - so if you want a closer look, you'll have to flip it. silly thing.***

    ....or you can see it flipped on Mark's RED Rigging post... howdhedodat? http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthr...18-RED-Rigging
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  5. #35  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meryem Ersoz View Post
    This is my cheap and simple Redlink Bridge mounting solution.

    I repurposed the old Element Technica 19mm rod mount V-lock plate, with a $20 bolt on 19mm rod. It's very solid and actually nicely balanced off the back of the camera. It may look slightly janky but doesn't feel that way at all. I like the look of the freefly solution and may wind up buying it, but this is a good option if you already own the 19mm clamp plate.

    This plate was one of the early V-mount solutions from ET which was tossed in the backup bin once better battery mounting solutions came along.

    But when it comes to RED, I've learned to never get rid of any widgets. They all seem to come back into play.

    ***edit - well, reduser seems to want to flip the image upside down, and I don't see a way to fix that - so if you want a closer look, you'll have to flip it. silly thing.***

    ....or you can see it flipped on Mark's RED Rigging post... howdhedodat? http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthr...18-RED-Rigging
    Wow, great solution, how did you think to do that? I have 3 AB plates, this solution could have saved me one of them.
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  6. #36  
    thanks, Jamon - well, my initial instinct was to run a single rod mounted to the top handle straight down the middle of the camera back and let it dangle behind the redlink. but that option felt a little too loose, and the 19mm clamp has a tendency to lose grip and sag with the weight of the battery. The whole setup was too floppy and unsatisfying.

    The bolt-on 19mm rod doesn't slip, and mounting the ET plate horizontally across the back instead of vertically along the side of the cam or behind the Redlink also eliminates the "flop" which occurred with side- or rear-mounting. The plate doesn't budget in this position and doesn't interfere with the Redlink at all.

    it's always about digging into the box o' widgets until something works.
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  7. #37  
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    Yeah, now that I see the pic straight up I can really see it, this set up leaves the battery in a pretty good position. That's cool.
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  8. #38  
    Senior Member Christoffer Glans's Avatar
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    I've been trying out a homemade wifi-thingy made by Björn Benckert at Syndicate and it works very well for setting up the camera using Fool control.
    Now I have tried the internal focusing and it's extremely disappointing. I know that this wifi-circuit isn't as robust as the Hotlink so it might have interference by other wifi signals (even though I shut down my own internet wifi while testing) but I've looked at the Optitron2 videos and find it seems similar in some instances.

    I cannot get a smooth operating focus change between two points. I've programmed two points using fool control and rack focused between them, but it's no way near what is professionally acceptable. It seems that some lenses are worse than others. My 24-70 2.8 II is one of canons best zooms and it performs really awful. My Sigma 35mm 1.8 art performs much better but still not perfect. When I look at the Optitron2 video posted in the internal focus thread I could make out "some" of this "jerky" behavior when changing focus.
    On top of that, the sound of the internal focus is really loud. There have been tests to show that it is within "acceptable volume", but I know for certain that it isn't and if I were to ever shoot a close up of someone talking and then change focus to behind her it would definetely be picked up by the sound guy.

    Can someone please explain to me some of this internal focus behavior? I was hyped before, but this is not really working for a professional shoot. With all the problems of short throw and so on, I find that much more workable and acceptable because at least I get a smooth focus instead of jerky loud ones. A skilled focus puller would manage short throws most of the time anyway.

    Here's a video of the jerky focusing using my 24-70mm 2.8 II.
    https://vimeo.com/119630325
    Password: focus

    Here's some additional footage
    https://vimeo.com/119630326
    Password: focus


    I've tried the rack focus within the Epic itself without fool control and when going from point A to point B it behaves somewhat the same.
    Maybe it's a problem with my Epic instead? I hope not.
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  9. #39  
    Senior Member Jacek Zakowicz's Avatar
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    Don't let the fool control fool you Chris ;-) I have never tried it but the general consensus about it here is very good. Including the focus control feature.
    We've got through initial hurdles with EFF quite a while ago and smoothness repeatability, no latency are as good as anything else. You need to watch the camera and the mount (make sure you follow the procedure installing the lenses and plugging the system components in) - after all this is completely new concept- but we now have many OptiTrons in the field and positive feedback. On the other hand- if the camera does not control the focus smoothly on its own (some lenses are better supported than others because thy were implemented earlier and continuously improved over longer period, or they are more straight forward to control) there is nothing we can do as we only send commands to the camera. Try the 85mm f1.2 Canon. It's a wonderfully smooth lens and it is very well supported. If that lens gives you trouble it must be your camera or the mount
    Jacek Zakowicz, Optitek-dot-org, jacek2@optitek.org
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  10. #40  
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacek Zakowicz View Post
    (some lenses are better supported than others because thy were implemented earlier and continuously improved over longer period, or they are more straight forward to control) there is nothing we can do as we only send commands to the camera. Try the 85mm f1.2 Canon. It's a wonderfully smooth lens and it is very well supported. If that lens gives you trouble it must be your camera or the mount
    100% agree. Not all Canon lenses give you the same quality/smooth electronic controlled mechanics.
    Mark L. Pederson
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