Thread: Speed Booster OLPF Caddy / 3D Print

Reply to Thread
Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 41 to 45 of 45
  1. #41 Now tring caddy 
    Hello.miller.

    I read an article that you posted in reducer.

    That's RED's OLPFCaddy article.(very useful and amazing Technic!THX)

    I have a 3D print and am now trying to attach it to my camera.

    However, when I wear the device, it comes out a little.

    Is this something wrong?

    Do I have to remove the metal fittings behind the OLPF in the attached photo?

    I would like advice...
    THX!!


    Photo hear..
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjRfNycscYTELKap7
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/BjosxxHXT3K4mg5d6
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #42  
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Basque Country
    Posts
    27
    I am also a S-W user, Have you got any results with the adapter? I've been looking at another adapter for a year (DSMC2 Speedmount) but its price seems very high. I want to know how reliable it is, or if it is simply a DIY that I'm not going to be able to use in any production. In my case I have to purchase the VV mount, the OLPF, and the Speedbooster. Its around 1500€ for this vs the 3500€ for the Speedmount
    Julen De La Serna| Filmmaker
    Scarlet-W - Zeiss Milvus - Sigma Art
    http://julendls.com
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #43  
    Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I've been trying a more primitive approach to this with my Scarlet MX. It was one of those why the hell not things as I had a speed booster laying around I didn't need. It is an M43 to EF speed booster though. I can't achieve infinity focus even with the speed booster sitting almost flush with the camera body which is as far back as I can get it. I am guessing this mod only works with E mount to EF speed boosters.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #44  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Toronto & Vancouver
    Posts
    4,177
    There were two m43-EF optical elements; one that was 1 stop/m43 to ~Super35/APS-C and one that 1.33 stop/m34 to ~VV/FullFrame. So it might depend on which ones of those you're using... Also, pretty sure James did a back-focus adjustment and moved the sensor as far forward as possible in order to achieve infinity on his DSMC1... You might want to try that!

    I would love to see some pics of your set-up! How'd you get it so recessed in?

    Would also love it if someone designed a DSMC1 OLPF Caddy (I actually have an extra STH OLPF -- like the bare OLPF -- that I could slot in).
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #45  
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike P. View Post
    There were two m43-EF optical elements; one that was 1 stop/m43 to ~Super35/APS-C and one that 1.33 stop/m34 to ~VV/FullFrame. So it might depend on which ones of those you're using... Also, pretty sure James did a back-focus adjustment and moved the sensor as far forward as possible in order to achieve infinity on his DSMC1... You might want to try that!

    I would love to see some pics of your set-up! How'd you get it so recessed in?

    Would also love it if someone designed a DSMC1 OLPF Caddy (I actually have an extra STH OLPF -- like the bare OLPF -- that I could slot in).
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike P. View Post
    There were two m43-EF optical elements; one that was 1 stop/m43 to ~Super35/APS-C and one that 1.33 stop/m34 to ~VV/FullFrame. So it might depend on which ones of those you're using... Also, pretty sure James did a back-focus adjustment and moved the sensor as far forward as possible in order to achieve infinity on his DSMC1... You might want to try that!

    I would love to see some pics of your set-up! How'd you get it so recessed in?

    Would also love it if someone designed a DSMC1 OLPF Caddy (I actually have an extra STH OLPF -- like the bare OLPF -- that I could slot in).
    So I am using a .71 speed booster by Lens Turbo, but its the same design as metabones, outside of the glass maybe not being quite as nice. Metabones does the larger .64 ones, though that isn't what James Miller used. The flange distance for M43 is 19.25mm while E mount is 18mm. I think that is where the problem lies, the longer flange distance means the focal reducer glass needs to be further from the sensor, which then makes it too close to the EF lens element. Does that make sense?

    I get a little more in focus if I adjust the sensor all the way back but its still very far off, not even close to infinity.

    I haven't designed how to securely keep it in place right now. Its just sitting there with gravity lol. I can get it pretty deep in, if I remove the IR cut filter.







    Not pretty but I think I could figure a way to keep it there securely. Only issue is I think using the M43 focal reducer is a bust.
    Reply With Quote  
     

Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts